46 – Holiday Homes Make Poor Investments

We spent last weekend five hours South of Perth in Albany, WA. With the kids in tow, we rented a cutesy old cottage for they duration so they’d have their own rooms and space to run around.

Being away in this context soon got me thinking about the many reasons why we veered away from holiday homes/apartments as an investment. With family frequently visiting from intrastate and overseas, a property that could be rented out is when not in use was hugely appealing to us at first glance but many reasons led us to reconsider.

When we first started looking seriously at property investment, one of my first thoughts was to purchase a holiday apartment. I figured something with a few bedrooms in nearby Scarborough might not cost too much and “Scarbs” is an increasingly vibrant area in Perth. It’s also a good spot for visiting tourists with its expansive beaches and nearby amenities. I’ll note this was before I came to prefer land (i.e. a house on a block of land) over apartments and decided to invest for long-term growth rather than cash flow—in short, don’t buy an apartment because the land content ratio is too low…). In general, you’ll likely pay a premium to buy in a holiday location—which may not relate to long-term capital growth. In other words, are you better off buying into a highly-priced holiday location or doing your research to buy into a cheaper suburb that’s likely to grow faster and produce a better return on investment in the long run?

We also had to ask ourselves whether we buy something local for the sake of the visiting relies or choose something further afield in a more interesting (to us) location—either out of town or in another state. If we wanted to make use of the property ourselves, would a “holiday at home” (er, a property in Perth, where we live) be all that desirable?

Regardless of location, the ability to produce an income will always be at the mercy of the local short-term rental market and tourism conditions. Although I’m no expert in this area, I’ll hazard a guess that sites like Air BnB are eating into the traditional short stay markets.

With a normal rental, you have the surety (in a way) of a guaranteed weekly rent for the term of the lease. With a holiday home, you might have a higher nightly rate but the uncertainty of whether the property will be full one night and vacant the next—which, on average, may or may not equate to the same income as a regular rental. Averages are useful but may hide seasonal ups and downs and corresponding cash flow troughs throughout the financial year.

Unlike a typical suburban house rental where we’re renting a property to a tenant as a place to live, as their home, with a holiday home we’re dealing with a different set of variables. How closely are holiday makers vetted? How do we insure the property? Will neighbours object to the comings and goings of visitors at unusual hours? What happens if China crashes and the Chinese tourists suddenly dry up? We had a global recession not all that long ago; are the Yanks still flying in to little old Perth at the same rate they were before the dot com and housing market crashes?

At the very least, you’ll need to estimate vacancy, affix a nightly rental price tag that fits the market and attracts the right kind of holiday makers or travellers, and then consider marketing costs (for your online listing, membership with the local tourism body or visitor centre, etc) and cleaning costs. Of course the property will also need to be furnished with not only furniture and appliances but linens, cookware, books/DVDs, artwork, etc. Other running costs will include electricity, water, gardening, and possibly cable and internet, as well as the usual rates and insurances.

Don’t forget, if you want to use the property yourself, the ATO will require you to exclude the period when the property was not available for rent as a percentage of any deductions you might want to claim (i.e. negative gearing). On the upside, you may be able to claim a higher rate of depreciation (4% p.a. over 25 years instead of 2.5% p.a. over 40 years).

If you want to use the property yourself during peak periods, then you’ll likely have to forego any income the property would otherwise generate during that time.

The property we rented in Albany, although lovely in an historic kind of way and very practical for our young family, has zero appeal to me from a practical and maintenance standpoint. Although the main house felt sturdy and sound, the back extension (these places always have a back extension, right?!?) had a definite lilt to it despite being the newer construction.

Then my wife plugged in the kettle for her morning tea but it wouldn’t switch on because she’d unwittingly tripped the circuit. Of course we just thought the kettle was a dud—until it came time for a shower and we had no hot water from the instant gas system with its electric ignition. It took a very upset wife and a call to the neighbouring manager, at 8:30am on a Sunday morning, to sort that one out.

We’ve been living in a relatively new house in Perth for going on a decade now and although it’s been a pretty easy run there are always things to deal with—we’ve already had to replace the hot water tank, for example. I cannot begin to imagine the countless number of ongoing issues to be found with an older house. On the one hand, it’s established and “bedded in” but how soon until the roof needs replacing or the foundation restumping? Insects and damp or mould may be problematic in older houses and the electrics may be shady.

Although I’d love to have a nearby holiday home for the relatives or a beach shack down south that we can use periodically, as an investment we’ll be sticking with suburban houses for now and fork out for a week or two in that holiday rental when we want to get away.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

44 - Re-letting IP#1

Our Brisbane tenants vacated the property in early September at the conclusion of their lease. No clear motivation for their departure was supplied to us by the property manager, apart from the girlfriend being pregnant. I wonder if the $5/month rent increase we applied when the lease was renewed/reworked was partly to blame but I suspect the tenancy simply ran its course. The local Griffin rental market is currently oversupplied and rents have fallen slightly.

The outgoing tenants willingly tidied up and addressed a handful of issues that required attention (a chipped kitchen tile, dog faeces in the back garden, some cleaning residue on the walls). Having the house empty was also a good opportunity for the builder to rectify a roofing defect and related ceiling damage from a recent water leak.

The property was not producing income during this vacancy period but my (admittedly pessimistic) budgeting plans anticipate a four-week annual vacancy period.

While home inspections were not widely attended before the last tenants vacated, interest picked up gradually from September. The property manager tells me the local rental market is oversupplied with new developments recently coming online and we eventually dropped the weekly rent from $415 initially to $410 and then to $405 as the weeks went by. Every $5 decrease translates into an additional loss for the investment of $260 per annum—less than I would have thought.

The “competition” (i.e. rentals exactly like or very similar to ours) were including a free week of rent and/or other incentives like six months of free gardening services. Our PM also suggested we could upgrade the realestate.com.au advertisement to feature/highlight our property but the rent decrease seemed the obvious way to go as it impacts the tenant’s bottom line.

We had a diverse range of applications through while the property was vacant:

• An ideal first application came from a mum and dad couple with two older, pre-teen boys and no pets. Dad was working away but mum was not employed and is, presumably, a homemaker. Unfortunately the neighbour’s aggressive dog growling through the fence scared them off (a friend initially inspected the property on their behalf as they were all living North); one of the sons was reported as having a disability and being afraid of dogs.
• We then received a second application from a mother with an older daughter, who herself has a 2yo and a newborn baby. They have a large breed dog, only 12 months old. It wasn’t clear whether mum was effectively planning to serve as guarantor for her daughter but they could service the rent payments between them. Kids and dogs don’t make for ideal tenants in my mind but that’s exactly the market we’re targeting with this style of property (4x2) in this location (outer-ring suburb). The pair were ready to go immediately on a six or twelve-month lease but, between my prompt reply to the real estate agent and their following up with the applicants, the applicants had accepted another property.
• On the back of the second application falling through, we received a third application from a very young couple (late teens/early twenties) with no rental history and very little rental affordability (<30%). Although without kids, they too have an active dog. As our only option, we discussed the risks with the property manager who thought the affordability risks were high. Meanwhile, my wife and I were both thinking back to when we were the same age, with very little income, a cat (and eventually a dog); we stayed in our first rental for four years, paid the rent on time every week, kept the property clean, and caused no damage. The PM discussed having a parent join the application as a guarantor but this couple also found an alternative rental before anything further happened.

Between applications and twice-weekly home opens, the property manager was working to see what could be done about the dog next door. The ranger was called and inspected the situation but decided the neighbour’s property is adequately fenced and the dog could not be labelled ‘menacing’. The ranger did speak with the owners and it was agreed a barrier could be placed against the fence to prevent the dog from getting as close to the boundary. Our PM also spoke to the neighbour’s PM about the situation and was told the dog would be brought inside during home opens (and is friendly once it gets to know someone).

We finally received a fourth application for a couple with two kids under five and two dogs—an older large breed dog and a younger small dog. They were requesting a 12-month lease commencing within the coming days. We approved their application and an executed lease document soon came back. At last!

The property was physically vacant for six weeks—and someone likely kicked a hole in the letterbox during that time, just for good measure—but the new tenants are hopefully in and happy as of last Friday.

Given the length of time the property was vacant, I consulted my risk matrix for some hints as to what to do next—should the vacancy period continue. My mitigation and contingency strategies were minimal (‘review property manager’ and ‘review financial controls’) but, following this experience, I added ‘review market supply’, ‘offer incentives’ and ‘promote advertisement’. I also increased the Probability rating from Remote to Occasional. Fortunately, we’re not cash flow investors and have sufficient cash buffers to weather an extended vacancy.

Although I naively expected our first tenants to stay on for another year at least, I likely need to adjust my expectations to assume a tenant will stay somewhere between 6-12 months. A 12-month lease gives us some surety but also locks us in to a rental amount and the tenant, who may or may not be problematic.

In terms of lessons learnt, I created a Landlord’s Vacating Tenants Checklist. This checklist differs from the standard checklist which might be supplied to the outgoing tenant or used by the property manager during the exit inspection in that it lists the things I need to check and do to a) ensure the tenants have done the right thing and b) ensure the property manager has done the right thing. More about the checklist and b) soon.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

41 – Why bother reviewing your bank interest rate

I write constantly here about reviewing your interest rates (and insurance premiums, etc) but that’s because I’m constantly astounded by how willing large organisations are to take us all for a ride with very subtle interest rate movements and other fees.

I recently noticed the interest rate advertised online for our PPOR and line of credit were a little way from the actual interest rates we’ve been paying. I thought the interest rates on these products would keep pace with both RBA rate changes and changes to the original product but of course that’s not always the case with RBA rate and perhaps not so much the case regarding changes to the loan product.

So I contacted the bank and, after chatting with a representative from the retention department, the rate on our PPOR loan was reduced by .20% (they couldn’t move the LOC rate).

It’s worth noting the rate advertised online is for new loans and the rep I spoke with told me they can’t “match” that rate as our loan was established at a certain point in time when interest rates were likely higher (i.e. when the bank “bought” the money they lent to us). I was told we’d have to refinance to achieve the lower rate.

The rep also mentioned the interest rate isn’t adjusted automatically as the product itself changes and it’s best to review the interest rate every twelve months or so and give the bank a call if necessary—good advice.

So what does .20% actually mean to us in dollar terms, I wondered? Is it $10 per annum and hardly worth bothering about or is $1000 (or more) per annum? I don’t like to wonder these things, I like to know with certainty so I put together a spreadsheet to multiply a given daily interest rate (or part thereof) by a specified amount for a specific timeframe (i.e. 30 days, 1 year, 2 years, etc).

Working off a principal amount of $500,000 (let’s call that the national medium house price, roughly speaking), I was surprised at the results.

For example, let’s say I’m comparing two loan products with an interest rate of 4% and 4.5% p.a. respectively. How much does that extra 0.5% cost per year? From my table (below), intersect the 0.5% column and the 365 (days) row and you can see the answer is $2,500. That’s a lot of money to unburden yourself of every year for no benefit. If you’re capitalising that charge it’s also going to compound in the bank’s favour!

The table shows two sets of columns. The first set with the dark headings shows part percentages up to 1%; the right-most columns with the lighter shading show a range of current rates, increasing at 0.5% intervals.

Have a look and compare the rates on your loans and then talk to your bank—or refinance if you have to (talk to a mortgage broker).

Click the image to see a a full-size version of the table.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

34 - Getting started, again

As mentioned, we’re looking at doing it all again with a second investment property build on the cards. It’s not so much that the first property has already performed that well (it’s done neither well nor badly—it’s far to early to tell) but we’ve still got unused equity sitting in our family home and, hopefully—if the banks agree, some borrowing capacity. To be clear on this point, we’re not “duplicating” just yet.

Having been through the first IP build with Open Corp, we’re comfortable with the process and the principles. The land purchase, construction, and tenant selection for that property went very, very smoothly and I don’t think we could have expected more in a first purchase/build. I’d be very happy if we can match our first experience a second time around.

Sure, it would be great to see some strong initial growth in the Brisbane market but I’m confident that growth will come—if not in the next few years then in the next ten. The tenants only moved into the house in September and, very simply, we’re in this for the long-term: if the growth takes time, I don’t really care when it comes (assuming it will come eventually, of course!). Remember the Brisbane market has been flat for some time now (years) and everyone in the Australia was saying “it’s Brisbane’s turn in 2015”)… which didn’t happen. Now it’s a question of “when”. The sooner the better as that growth can then be leveraged to duplicate with no dependence on our family home.

Growth aside, the holding costs for the first IP are almost negligible (a final reckoning will come at tax time but even then we’ll have only a partial picture with the wife having been on maternity leave for most of this financial year).

Having been busy back at work myself for the last quarter, we’re looking to Open Corp again. As noted, I’m confident in their process but not so much in my ability to implement their process. It’s also a risk management thing to my mind, especially with these crucial first purchases. Open Corp have pointed us to Melbourne and identified some initial areas and properties to looks at.

I’ve meanwhile been speaking with our broker from Mortgage Choice, Nathan, to start the finance pre-approval wheels turning. Nathan and I met to go through a pre-assessment completed by Mortgage Choice, which gave us a rough indication of what we might (or might not) be able to borrow and which lenders might be in the mix.

In our case, we had only one lender to consider (one of the big four) following the recent belt tightening by the banks and the banking sector regulators and so we’re moving forward on that basis. As with the IP#1 pre-approval, we had to submit pay slips, credit card statements, bank account and mortgage statements, drivers licenses and passports, and the tenancy agreement for the first investment property.

All just a formality—or so it should be—but it all got a little bit hairy since my employment contract runs out early next year and I haven’t (yet) been offered a new contract. My wife already has contracts signed for when she returns to work from maternity leave and, interestingly, while the bank wouldn’t consider her future income, they were insistent on sighting her contracts. They also requested a letter from my employer stating my current arrangements and that they would (in principle) be on-going.

Mortgage Choice tells me we had a particularly hard bank-side assessor (especially for a pre-approval, thought I!) but we prevailed in the end. I find there’s no point in stressing about financing as the ultimate decision is beyond my control. It’s more a case of follow the bouncing ball, supply the information requested in a timely matter, and hope for the best!

We’re now back to Open Corp and waiting for a block to come available before our pre-approval expires in thirty days.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

25 – Insurance for Landlords

As we move progressively closer to the “launch” of our first investment property, our handler at Open Wealth noted we should start looking at insurance options. I seem to write a lot about insurance!

For our family home, we have building insurance because the bank requires it and this is the same for an investment property, of course. Although the building itself is a depreciating asset, it’s what allows us to generate revenue on the land (an appreciating asset) and would be expensive to repair or rebuild in the event of fire, flood, impact from space debris (!), etc, etc.

We also have contents insurance to cover the things inside the house like the furniture, clothing, pots and pans, and the TV. Notably, our insurance company classifies window and floor coverings under the banner of contents insurance.

As landlords we have a few more things to consider, such as malicious damage by a tenant and lost rental income for reasons like the tenant not paying rent. We also need public liability insurance to cover things like a tenant injuring himself because he tripped over a crack in our driveway, for example. In general, these things come under the heading of “landlord insurance”.

When I initially started comparing insurance products, I assumed we’d need standard building (and possibly contents) cover and then bolt on a landlord insurance product through the same insurer or another insurer. I was surprised to find that many insurers selling landlord insurance already bundle building and landlord under the heading of Landlord Insurance, and typically include public liability insurance as part of that offering. These products also tend to cover window and floor coverings too—either through the building component of the policy or through a modest contents component.

As usual, the pricing and inclusions for insurance from the various providers varies widely. I’ve received quotes ranging in cost from $600 to nearly $2000 for our 4x2 single storey IP. Some insurers will include removal of rubbish and motor burnout while others do not. Some insurers include theft by a tenant while others list it as optional. Most insurers will deduct the bond from any claim payment for themselves—but not all. Some insurers will insure you only if the property is managed by a licensed property manager and has a fixed term lease in place—i.e. not a periodic lease; others offer flexibility on these points. The only way to get to the point of a like for like comparison is to read the (lengthy—and boring) product disclosure statements for each product you may be considering. Needless to say, the last few evenings at our house have been painfully dry!

I’ve also investigated having a broker recommend a suitable insurance product and thus far Queensland Insurance Services has supplied me with a few quotes after I submitted a fact finder document to them.

One nice feature offered by some insurers like Allianz and CGU is the option to pay monthly, instead of annually, at no extra cost. Normally I’d prefer the convenience (and cost savings) of paying annually for personal bills but when it comes to an investment property I’m thinking more about cashflow—especially in these early days when the property will be negatively geared.

In terms of paying for running costs like these, we’ve got a few options. The easiest would be to have the property manager deduct the payment amount from rents collected and then make the payment on our behalf. I haven’t set this up yet but likely will once I’ve got a grip on it all. An alternative would be to pay costs from the line of credit account we have associated with this property—and into which rental income and tax variations are paid.

I’m still in the process of exploring insurance companies in Queensland. As we’re insured through GIO in Western Australia, I’d hoped to insure this property in Queensland with them as well to obtain a multi-policy discount. Unfortunately GIO don’t offer insurance in Queensland—despite the fact their parent company, Suncorp—does. Which is frustrating.

Mortgage Choice referred me to Allianz and they’ve come back with a strong quote; I’d initially written them off because their online quote system told me they don’t insure for flood but the rep I spoke to following the Mortgage Choice referral was able to add flood cover. I’ve also had a look at RACQ but they don’t offer landlord insurance.

Suncorp seems to be very similar to GIO here but they are a little pricey. I’ve also looked at Commbank, Terri Sheer (owned by Suncorp—also a little expensive but recommended to me by our newly-appointed property manager, who gets a $22 kickback if we sign up), CGU (very cheap but offering a strong insurance product as far as I can tell), and QBE.

As I do with all of my insurance purchases, I’ll increase the basic excess to at least $1000. I’m not sure if this is a wise move or not for the small cost savings. That’s the unfortunate thing about tenants: they’re largely outside of your control in your house (er, investment property)!

One final aspect to consider when selecting an insurer is how likely they’ll be to pay a claim. This will likely come down to experience and anecdotal evidence from jaded (or maybe the odd happy) customers who post about their experience online.

Insurance, despite being awkward and boring, is one of those things required to manage risk. You pay the premium in the hope you’ll never need to make a claim.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

14 - Progress Update: Plans Approved

We received a quick note from Open Wealth today noting the builder has confirmed building plans and permits have been approved. The start date for construction—preparation for the slab pour—is next Monday!

I’m certainly ready to see this house built so we can get tenants in and start recouping costs. The holding costs have been minimal to date but now that we’ve settled on the land we’re accruing interest on the mortgage for that component and our first interest payment of nearly $700 came due just this week. That amount is paid from our line of credit and capitalised as interest during construction so it’s no problem from a cash flow perspective—and was budgeted for—it’s just a bit scary seeing it all start to happen for real now.

In contrast to our new build, Gemma’s father recently popped into town (they live south of Perth) with the intention of buying a second residence to accommodate them when they come up. They located an existing house in one day, put in an offer that equals the asking price, and settlement is due in the next few weeks. In effect, they’ll be able to move in soon and the time between their offer being accepted and move in day will be less than a month (if everything goes smoothly).

Two of the reasons why Open Wealth advocates building over buying is to take advantage of depreciation as a non-cash tax benefit and to avoid paying stamp duty on the building component of the purchase (i.e. the house). With a new build, we’ll pay GST to the builder (10%) and while the depreciation will be a substantial bonus, we’ll be accruing interest for many months before the house is tenant ready (again, assuming the build goes smoothly). I haven’t done my figures to determine which is the most cost-effective route but I imagine it would be close.

Note building new also brings builder’s and structural warranties, greater tenant appeal, of course, and potentially a greater valuation so you can leverage the equity and do it all again.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

9 - Performance Measurement

My wife is my yardstick for measuring reality. I’m admittedly a bit of a dreamer at times (with the ability to get mired in the details, mind!) but my Dr. wife, being smarter than me, is always ready to offer the checks and balances I occasionally require to cool me off when I get carried away.

Part of that is because she hasn’t learned what I’ve learned so she asks a lot of tough questions which forces me to think hard about the answers. She’s also far more conservative than I am and could probably be labelled a reluctant partner in all of this—her preferred approach to investment is to save cash in the bank.

Related to all of this, Cam McLellan over at Open Wealth, with who we’re building our first investment property, did an early podcast on the subject of what he calls “Dream Crushers”. A Dream Crusher tells you what they think (i.e. which is usually a negative, subjective view about what you’re thinking about doing) without having the experience or objective education on the particular subject to support their comments. This commentary gets you down and ultimately prevents you from taking action. The wife is effectively my lead Dream Crusher—although she usually comes around, either because I babble at her so much she wants to shut me up or because what I’m saying makes sense to her and she comes to understand my intention.

Which leads me into the subject of today’s post.

The investment strategy I had yet to—until yesterday—articulate to my beloved wife was to complete construction of IP #1 by mid-year (ish) and look at identifying and securing finance for IP #2 (and possibly IP #3) through the end of Q3 and the start of Q4 2015. This would tie in well with the fact I’d be back at work full time by that point, which the banks would hopefully look at favourably in terms of debt serviceability.

Then my wife hit me with her strategy: evaluate the performance of IP #1 before rushing forward. To me that was the sound of the cord being pulled and the lights going out. Fizzle. Zap. “No more property investing for you, dear hubby!”

We didn’t speak more on the matter initially but her comments certainly got me thinking: what is the detailed set of criteria we might use to define performance?

I’ve honestly been a little bit stumped about how to measure performance for a while now.

The easy one, of course, is a doubling in value (capital increase of 100%) every 7-11 years for good metro properties. The market will generally do this for you unless you’re adding value somehow (i.e. through renovations or infrastructure projects coming online).

Gross—or better yet—net rental yield is a good starting point as it’s a metric that’s easy to calculate and track.

Perhaps more important is the transition from negative gearing to neutral or positive gearing within a timeframe you can afford. Let’s say 1 to 5 or 7 years. This might happen in a number of different ways. Rents increase. Debt might be reduced or retired (but I wouldn’t take this approach) and interest rates might move—down like we’re seeing these days. You earned income may increase as you progress in your career, allowing for more effective tax deductions.

The conclusion that I’ve come to is performance must be measured over specified time intervals: 1 year (or less initially); 3 years; 5 years; 10 years; 15 years; 20 years. My strategy is to hold for the very long term and hence I believe performance should therefore be measured over the long term too. Hopefully in that time our property would have become positively geared and seen reliable capital growth.

Simply looking at results year on year doesn’t work for me. A property might be sitting pretty one year but take a step backwards the next before recovering again in year three, for example. The contextual economics need to be factored in to your assessment at the very least and this will happen automatically by measuring performance over a multi-year period.

More importantly, deciding to invest or not invest in a second property, which will likely be in a different suburb if not a different market (i.e. a different capital city), based on the performance of the first property isn’t an equitable comparison.

There are also other factors that I’ll say are beyond your control, for lack of a better expression. Let’s say you buy a negatively geared property in the years before you retire.  Your income is hopefully at the highest level it ever has been and so your tax deductions go further and, were you to keep working, that negatively geared property might be able to generate a positive cash flow for you in a few years.

And then you retire, hopefully with structures in place that will minimise your tax burden. Realistically your income will likely decrease in retirement. But what about those deductions?! That negatively geared property might remain that way for longer than you anticipate if you’re not able to pay down debt. At worst, it might eat into your retirement income and put a hold on your big retirement plans. Moreover that property may have seen only insignificant capital growth in the short term, making any sale not worthwhile despite the potential CGT savings.

If you’re younger, as I am, what if you’re working full-time one year but not earning at all the next? This is my reality as a stay-at-home dad. Bring forward tax deductions, yes, but that muddies the waters somewhat across the financial year boundaries.

Tenant churn might be a problem. That is, you might struggle to retain tenants, leading to more vacancy periods than another investor might have with an elderly couple who’ve been in the rental for a decade—doing their own light maintenance no less! (I read an investor profile just like this one in API). If you’ve got a strong property manager now, what happens if he or she moves on and you’re left with an average manager?

What about bad tenants? Insurance claims? Construction defects if you’re building new?

Interest rates may (will) increase, reducing positive cash flow.

Special circumstances may also intervene. Let’s say you lose a tenant for a length of time greater than you planned for because a major industry pulls out of the local market and rental demand evaporates. Or a flood leads to a broad stagnation in the market in terms of capital growth (as per Brisbane). I can only imagine what impact the earthquakes in New Zealand had on rental property there.

If you’re holding long-term, these sorts of events that occur in one year, or even over a number of years, don’t necessarily mean you’ve bought a dud. It might, if you’re being forced to subsidise a negatively geared property you easily can’t afford—in which case you’ll probably want the situation to come good within a defined time period (i.e. five to ten years); you’ll also need to decide whether that subsidy is worth the cost to you—especially if it’s not a burden. The selling costs (agent’s fees, possibly CGT, timing, etc)—coupled with the costs to acquire a replacement property (stamp duty, possibly LMI, time lost in the market)—make selling off an “underperforming” asset problematic.

I’ve written previously that time heals all problems but the flip side to this statement, of course, is that time is not on our side! Even for me as a relatively young man I’ll only get two to three decades (two to three growth cycles) before we both retire and our earned income dries up. With a goal of holding 6-10 properties at minimum, and natural constraints around how quickly we can do that, time is most definitely not on our side!

I’ll keep working through this one but I wanted to share while the subject was front of mind.

I’ve been reading a lot of Robert Kiyosaki lately so I’ll close by highlighting a recurring theme in all of his Rich Dad books: don’t buy investments that will cost you money. Speaking to us Aussies, I’m pretty sure he’d say “buy positively geared properties, mate”. That doesn’t completely solve our performance question—a positively geared property could revert back—but it’s a sound idea where it’s possible to find and buy such an asset.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

5 - How to Spend Money

This is simple but for so many people the concept is something from the stratosphere. My rules are as follows:

1. Don’t spend money
2. Use other people’s money (a mortgage to buy property, interest free periods on a credit card) when you have to spend money
3. Build your credit history (if you’re new to borrowing)

Let me explain in a bit more detail…

1. Don’t Spend Money

This is really the golden rule. Some people might choose to read this as “don’t spend money you don’t have” but see Rule #2 before you adopt that approach. But there’s no need to interpret the wording at all: just don’t spend money!

Although simple in theory, this is extremely difficult for many people to implement in practice. We’re used to spending money and our culture conditions us to spend more money than we need through marketing and advertising and by watching our friends and families succeed. Break the habit, become wealthier, spare the planet the extra plastic, and change the world, maaaaan!!! Ignore the adverts and recognise and accept your friends might be earning more money than you are/in a different financial situation to yours/stupider than you are. Spending money is not a measure of success or intelligence.

If you don’t need something, don’t buy it. Live frugally, is what I always say (rather than calling myself cheap!). Don’t live in the moment and buy impulsively. The time for spending money will come but right now you need to accumulate money and wealth and the easiest way to do this is via the magical effects of compounding, a subject on which I’ll write more about in detail another day. For now, just understand the less money you throw away, the more money you’ll have to make more money.

Before you whip our your credit card, stop and think whether what you’re about to buy is going to increase the number of days (or months or years) you’re going to have a mortgage to repay—or increase the time it’s going to take to save up a deposit for a first home loan. Ask yourself if this doodad, that beer, this seemingly insignificant expenditure is really necessary to your wellbeing and fulfilment. Can it wait another month? Another year? I remember when I first reviewed the interest costs on our PPOR mortgage: over the thirty year term, we would ultimately end up paying the bank the value of our home again. The quicker we could repay the principal, the less we’d pay on interest.

The best way not to spend money is to understand what you need to spend to survive (i.e. a plan or budget—anything), spend that amount and record the transactions against your plan or budget, and treat  yourself occasionally but in moderation.

There are also many subtleties at play here. Never spend money on a depreciating asset like a car—i.e. don’t buy cars, at least not new ones, until you can genuinely afford to. Don’t buy an ultra HD curved OLED television. Don’t waste food. If you’re spending more than $50 a month on booze, you’re spending too much. Definitely don’t smoke or quit if you do. Take it easy on the holidays. Don’t eat out too much.

There are also some really easy things you can do. Buy store brand ketchup instead of Heinz ketchup. Mow your own lawn. Change your behaviours by wearing your clothes for a second season instead of refreshing your wardrobe every three months. Use grocery store fuel vouchers to save on petrol. Pay your bills on time to avoid fees. Ensure you’re never in a position where you have to pay late payment fees or, worse, credit card interest. Make your lunch and take it to work instead of buying lunch every day. Cancel your cable TV subscription. Become a vegetarian and stop eating meat. Ride a bike to work instead of catching the bus or train (or worse, driving your car and paying for parking). As you start thinking like this, you find all sorts of ways to save a few dollars and as my mom always said: “every penny counts!”

Keep the achievement of your long-term goals front of mind and what you give up today is easier to bear. We took on a $700k+ mortgage in 2006; it’s all but paid off less than ten years later through moderate (minimal, really) spending and careful saving.

Edit: Please read my follow up post “Think Rich”—it explores a valid counterpoint to this concept.

2. Use Other People’s Money

If you insist on spending money, don’t use your money, use someone else’s money—at least for as long as you can and if you can do so for free.

Credit cards are considered intrinsically evil by some people but if these facilities are not abused they can be used to your advantage. As long as your balance owing is paid by the due date—that is, you have the cash flow to afford what you’ve purchased—you won’t have any interest to pay for the privilege of borrowing that amount for up to sixty days.

We buy everything (EVERYTHING—except purchases that attract a fee) on a single credit card with a reasonable limit and we pay the credit card bill on time. Our typical credit card bills run between $2,000 and $3,000 (more around Christmas, sometimes less after a really good month); instead of being paid for immediately from our cash, the value of our monthly spend is being lent to us at no charge by the credit card company. During that interest free period, that lent money is working for us in our offset account—reducing the amount on which mortgage interest is charged.

The added bonus is having the majority of our transactions centralised on one card, which makes it easy to know how much we’re spending month to month; it’s also easy to spot any problems. I typically pay off the credit card, in full, a day or two before it’s due to maximise the credit benefit.

The key takeaway here is to never pay interest on your credit card. Most cards will charge interest at an annual rate of around 20%. This adds up to lot of money—I’m always astounded how my credit card statement tells me if I only pay the minimum amount I’ll pay off the closing balance in “58 years and 07 months” and “end up paying an estimated total interest charge of $22,828”! That’s crazy talk.

If you get stuck with credit card debt, plan on getting rid of that debt first before anything else because it will most likely be the highest interest rate you’re faced with (apart from a bad car loan, perhaps). Call your credit card company and have a chat with them about a repayment plan or an interest-free period—ask to speak to the manager if necessary. If your card company won’t help—and by help I mean be very generous to you—roll over the balance on the card to a new card with a 0% introductory balance for 12 months or whatever period you can find. Hopefully that will give you enough time to clear the debt without the interest burden accumulating on top of the original amount.

Finally, I don’t use cards that incur an annual fee just for the sake of a few perks.

When it comes to your home loan, you also need to be careful. If you have a number of debts (i.e. a car loan, credit card, personal loan, etc) you may be offered the option of consolidating all those loans into your home loan. The benefit of doing so is a better interest rate: instead of a 20% rate for your card debt, you’ll be paying 5% at today’s rates. The downside is that debt will follow you for the term of your home loan, meaning the interest on the amount you’ve consolidated will compound every year until it’s repaid—along with x number of years of interest. You could end up paying off that new car for thirty years—long after the car is gone!

You might similarly be tempted to refinance your home to free up equity for a holiday or a new toy (boat?) or a swimming pool. This is easily done but, again, be mindful that in doing so you’re hiding the true cost and using money you can’t really afford.

Credit cards and home loans are generally considered “bad debt” because it’s money that doesn’t work for you. Consider the alternative: “good debt”. This is money borrowed that you in turn use to make money through investing in real estate, a business, or stocks. In contrast to the loan on your PPOR which will cost you money on interest (this interest cannot be claimed as a tax deduction), a investment property mortgage will serve to earn you money. So as a footnote to this section, if you’re buying an investment property, use the bank’s money—secured by the equity in your home—instead of putting down your cash that can be better used elsewhere.

A student loan like a HECS debt is also someone else’s money. If you have the option to reduce interest by making early repayments, ask yourself if the cost of holding onto that loan and not making early repayments will allow you to use that money more productively elsewhere. How much will you save by making early repayments? How much do you stand to make by investing the value of those repayments elsewhere (e.g. in an offset transaction account, saving you interest of say 5% at today’s rates on your PPOR mortgage)?

3. Build your Credit History

If you’re new to property and are looking to take on your first home loan in the next twelve months or so you’re probably also saving for a deposit and implementing a lot of the tips I’ve offered above—good on you. The next step is to ensure you have some form of credit history for lenders to look at when assessing your eventual loan application. To carry on from Rule #2, the easiest way to build your credit history is to take on a single credit card, use it, and ensure it’s paid off in full by the due date. This will help identify you as a borrower with a proven track record of debt repayment—through both intention and financial means.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

3 - First Steps

There are so many subtle decisions and parallel steps in the property buying process it’s hard to know where to start in describing how we went from A to B. I suppose I’ll start at the very beginning, following our decision residential property investment was the thing for us.

Selecting an Investment Advisor

I’ve written about our “A-Team” previously so won’t reiterate the contents of that post here. Suffice to say we knew we’d need to decide on an individual or company to assist us to select a market, suburb, and property. I considered the risks too high to attempt this on my own, the first time around. You might do this yourself, someone might do it for you at no cost to you, or you might pay someone to provide this service (such as a broker).

I met with a few property investment companies and ultimately decided to move forward with Open Wealth Creation. We aligned to the Open Wealth methodology because it made sense and the Open Wealth team provided a large quantity of quality educational materials at no charge (a reminder, this blog is not an advertisement or referral for any of the entities I mention in these posts).

As we evaluated Open Wealth, I was also interacting with Joyce Property (based in Perth) but I opted not to move forward with them because they also promote and sell apartments; I don’t believe apartments are a good residential investment and I believe if you’re spruiking apartments you’re not working in the interest of those who are investing with your firm. Notably, Joyce does not charge a fee for their services, whereas Open Wealth do charge a fee. Joyce are obviously a very experienced organisation (I met with Graham Joyce and he oozes professional history). 

My wife and I also met with a representative from Investmark and I attended a seminar and had a follow up meeting with IPG but neither were up to the task I set them and seemingly just wanted to shift stock onto naive investors. Their eyes widened when we first explained how much useable equity we had but neither one followed up with me, despite prompting, when I asked them to back up their claims. The free IPG seminar was more or less promising and it seemed like what they were selling was based on good research. At the end of the day, both felt very slippery, verging on dodgy.

Finally, I met with Nicheliving a few times (primarily for their mortgage brokering services but initially for their house and land packages). They’re obviously big in WA but were really pushing us towards NRAS properties and their approach seemed somewhat thick. I knew pretty quickly I wanted to be building in Queensland (Brisbane) but it was worth the discussion with Nicheliving. Nicheliving are a one stop shop, which might be a good thing (or might not!). Their advertising also shows a dude holding wads of cash so it seemed like they target the get rich quick crowd which is not what I’m about.

Getting Money

In parallel with the discussions I was having with these advisors and property development firms, I initiated contact with our current bank and with the mortgage broker we used when purchasing our PPOR.

Although I didn’t intend to send the investment property mortgage to the bank that holds the mortgage over our PPOR, I needed to understand how much equity we had in our family home and, secondarily, how much they thought we could borrow. This turned out to be a good move as the bank was able to very quickly order a full valuation at no charge to me and it turned out to be a very positive engagement in terms of learning how to to converse successfully with the bank. Importantly, because the bank ordered the valuation directly, I was able to get a copy (I wasn’t able to get a copy when our mortgage broker requested a second valuation—which also went through the bank…). 

I wasn’t as impressed with the bank’s view about our loan serviceability—and in turn how much they would lend us; this was due primarily to the fact we’re a single-income family. Nonetheless, the home loan specialist I dealt with was immensely useful in helping me to understand the value of our family home and how we might go about refinancing its corresponding mortgage and optionally financing the investment property purchase. The specialist was also able to share the valuation report with me and it was helpful to see how the valuer saw our property (interestingly, we have a four bedroom house—as per the plans I supplied to him—but he recorded and valued the property as a three bedroom house with a study…).

I didn’t want the bank which has our PPOR mortgage to also hold our IP mortgage because I didn’t want to cross-securitise the loans. I highlighted this when I spoke to our bank and was reassured it wouldn’t be a problem but I’ve read a single lender holding both mortgages will always ensure they come out best in the event of any problems. Yes, we might have secured a lower interest rate and it would have been convenient having everything in one place but I’d only consider a single bank scenario if we eventually get to the world of private banking.

Following that initial conversation with the bank I also got in touch with a mortgage broker. Broker’s are often recommended and, as mentioned, we’d had success with a broker when mortgaging our PPOR (we used Mortgage Choice). You can do your homework and check out products from each of the banks on your own but why bother when using a mortgage broker doesn’t cost you anything and they’re already familiar with countless loan products? The broker I dealt with reassured me Mortgage Choice is paid the same commission for all of the products they recommend, removing the opportunity for the broker to recommend one product above another that will earn them more money; of course I’m not sure how true that is.

Our broker told me he has a few investment properties himself and I think finding people who understand investment property is really important because they’ll have a better appreciation of the path you’re following. As some of our requirements were different to your mortgage broker’s average client requirements (more on that in a moment), I wanted to structure our loans differently than what the broker first had in mind. At the end of the day the broker was able to find the products we needed, submit the applications (he walked through every line on the application forms with me), and secure an interest rate on the main loan that is 0.02% better than what that bank would have offered had I gone to them directly.

With my wife being a doctor, it turned out she was also eligible for a partial LMI waiver (this is one of the interesting requirement I mentioned earlier). Essentially, some lenders will offer members of specific professions an LMI waiver on the basis that they present a lower risk as borrowers. Search for LMI discount or see here for examples—you may be surprised what you find. I certainly wish I’d known about this offer/wish it existed when we purchased our PPOR as we had some major cash flow problems for a little while when we first had to sort out stamp duty and then LMI (and then retaining walls)!

Both of the brokers I was dealing with (Mortgage Choice and Nicheliving) were across the major lenders offering LMI waivers (initially CBA and Westpac but now ANZ and possibly Macquarie and St Georges) and we ended up being able to borrow 90% of the IP costs without incurring LMI. Note the 10% balance was paid from the line of credit secured against the equity in our PPOR but we could have done an 80/20 split if necessary. You can take the latter approach too if you don’t qualify for an LMI waiver but don’t want to pay LMI and have sufficient equity.

Mortgage Choice submitted applications for the main IP loan and the line of credit with our existing lender. Both lenders performed their respective valuations, the first on the property we were buying and the second on our home.

After all was said and (nearly*) done, our unconditional finance approvals came through without a hitch. People get all bent out of shape about finance but I don’t let it phase me—in this case I’d done my homework and knew what to expect. In other words, I wasn’t asking for more than any reasonable person in our situation might need and the numbers were simple and made sense. I was also confident our team would get us through. Might be different next time around though!

* Land settlement is due in the next few weeks. When settlement occurs, the solicitor will meet with the bank and land developer to ensure monies are dispersed appropriately and all of the legals are taken care of.

Land and Builder (etc)

Following an initial phone consultation with Open Wealth and a bit more back and forth, the first thing we needed to do with them was have our name added to a waiting list for a property in the area (the development) they were recommending.

After looking over the property details and the house specifications, we had to sign an “Exclusive Hold Agreement”, which essentially allowed us to deliberate further, and undertake additional due diligence, while the property could not be offered to anyone else. The hold agreement also required payment of a $1,000 refundable deposit. If we chose to back out, the deposit would be refunded in full. This deposit was payable to Open Wealth and is ultimately part of their 2% fee.

With the land contracts submitted, we then had to pay a $2,000 refundable holding deposit to the land developer. This deposit is essentially part of what would be a typical 10% land deposit—there is no further deposit to pay for the land and the balance of the land price and costs are paid at land settlement. The land contracts included the Contract for House and Residential Land (REIQ) and Terms of Contract for House and Residential Land (REIQ), as well as special annexures.

Note we had no opportunity throughout this process to submit an “offer” as such and when I enquired about negotiating on price, I was told the prices are essentially non-negotiable. This is something I want to find out more about if we repeat the process again with Open Wealth.

Next, we had to pay the balance of the Open Wealth “Development Management Agreement Fee” (their fee) within seven days following unconditional approval. This fee is 2% plus GST of the total land and construction price and is tax deductible.

Finally (FINALLY!) we had the 5% builder’s deposit to pay; we were given the option of paying this before settlement so the builder could make a start before we actually owned the land (due to an arrangement between the land developer and the builder negotiated by Open Wealth). We had the option to pay this after settlement.

Note I would have paid all of these costs from our line of credit in order to tax deduct the interest but unfortunately the LOC wasn’t yet available when I paid the $1k and $2k deposits. I may still be able to claim something for these but it gets tricky as I paid both of these initial deposits from our personal transaction account and that gets messy in the eyes of the ATO; will let the accountant sort that one out come tax time! [Update: on advice from our accountant, I “refunded” the $3k to our personal account, in two separate transactions, from our LOC.]

In summary, these were our upfront costs and the timing of relevant milestones:

September

• Exclusive Hold Agreement signed and returned.

October

• Open Wealth deposit: $1,000 (of the total Development Management Fee) to Open Wealth. Refundable.
• Land contracts signed by us and returned.

November

• Land developer deposit: $2,000 (of the land price) to the land developer. Refundable. Payable once land sale contracts submitted
• Unconditional finance approval received. 
• Development Management Agreement Fee: 2% plus GST (minus $1,000 paid initially) of the land and construction costs to Open Wealth. Tax deductible.
• Construction contracts signed by us and returned.

December

• Builder’s deposit: 5% of the construction price to the builder. Tax deductible.

[Update: March

• Land settlement]

Reading and Learning

As all of these events unfolded, I was busily reading everything I could get my hands on. I’ve started a bibliography which I’ll publish soon in case you want to follow what I’ve read. Education is obviously a time consuming (and at times tiresome) activity but I feel it’s important to understand the principles of property investment inside and out—especially as I lack the repeated experiences myself.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,
Michael

2 - Choose to Live Well

New Year’s Eve approaches and I’m feeling reflective—on the year that was and the year to come. Specifically, I’m thinking a great deal about what it means to be happy, free, and self-sustaining. I look to my family for these things as they make me happy and help me (us) to be free and, eventually, self-sustaining.

As a stay-at-home dad, I made a conscious decision to put aside, if not discard, my career in IT and take on a role unfamiliar to many men. I handed financial control—at least the income generating aspects—to my wife. Rather than being the member of our family with the highest income, my raw financial contribution in dollars and cents become zero and I spend my days wiping bums and playing house. In short, as Robert Kiyosaki might say, I stopped doing what I can do best: making money as an employee.

Has this hurt us, financially? Not really. Not yet. Not in the short term. Fortunately my wife makes a decent income on her own and this year has been financially productive with her working rurally for six months. I’m not contributing to my superannuation, of course. Had I been working, most of my income would have been put towards paying down the mortgage on our family home. These are important things to think about, particularly in regards to our future financial position and our ability to retire comfortably. My time as a productive employee is limited, after all.

Do we live any less well than than we did when we both worked? No. We’ve always lived frugally. Realistically we’ve been a single family income for a while now as my wife had twelve months off when our first child was born (only a fourth months of which, roughly, was paid). We’ve become accustomed to tightly managing our available funds and resources and while we don’t scrimp and pinch pennies as much as we once did, we by no means lead a lavish lifestyle today.

We’ve essentially chosen to live well.

Our daughter would have had to go to day care, full-time, from the age of one, if I had opted to continue working. Or my wife would have had to put on hold many, many years of education and training in the medical field to stay at home (part-time work is not a real option for her today). Sure, we could have bought some more furniture and some overhead cabinets for the kitchen and maybe another big machine for my woodworking shop but all of those things can wait. In general our long-term lifestyle goals are not much different than our reality today: no flashy cars, no big house, no designer clothes; we appreciate the simple things in life.

A second income would also make us more appealing to the banks in terms of investment loans but I know what we can and cannot afford in terms of debt service so I’ll take my business to the lender who best understands that. Notably, securing funding for this first investment property has not been a problem, primarily because of the equity in our PPOR.

I’m also somewhat fatalistic and I know I won’t live forever. I’m not living it up today, in my thirties, to counterbalance that eventuality, but I despise the idea of working myself to the bone, slumped over a desk day in and day out while life and reality pass me by. My wife would like to work part-time one day in the future (when it will be easier for her to do so) and I genuinely hope she can. She does have a significant contribution to offer society as a doctor but there’s no denying the past ten years of training has been gruesome and taken a toll on our family life.

This is the reason why I’ve opted to invest in residential property. It’s the hope of achieving financial freedom, at relatively low risk, and the promise—however distant—of making a passive income legitimately. An empire of appreciating land, buttressed by the houses on that land generating income so I don’t have to, is, for me, the pinnacle of financial success and personal financial security. There are complexities. There will be hard times ahead. There are also simplicities and there will be good times ahead too.

I spent a significant amount of time this year preparing mentally, through knowledge-building, to start executing a multi-year (multi-decade) investment strategy focused exclusively on residential property. I have minimal experience in this area. There is no doubt I will make mistakes but in pushing forward I gain experience and ultimately reduce and remove risk. As a stay-at-home dad I had a bit of spare time (not much though!) to fast-track my property investment education and I’m reliant on a number of companies to help me stay on track. I like to think I’m not idle at home (beyond the twelve-hour days running the house, that is) and that I’m contributing—financially—to my family’s long-term success and our future ability to live well.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Happy new year,

Michael

Setting the Scene

I’ve previously mentioned property investment and that’s what I’m here writing about (or will be soon once the formalities are out of the way). So before we get started in earnest allow me to explain why we felt the need to invest. As always, I’ll go into specifics in future posts—I promise.

Our pathway through life has been, to date, very much what most people would expect: grow up, go to school (university), get a good job (refer to Robert Kiyoasaki’s excellent Rich Dad Poor Dad book for more on this mantra). You might follow that with work hard, retire, die.

In my case, I opted to start my tertiary education in the arts to lay the groundwork for future specialisation so I studied English Literature and Art History. I followed that with a Masters in Information Technology.

My wife followed a similar path, starting out in veterinary studies before shiftingd over to medicine.

I did alright, academically, in my undergraduate degree and did very well in my Masters degree. The wife did very well throughout. I landed in a pretty good job out of university and my wife entered the public health system to complete her training.

Our incomes grew rapidly as we progressed from junior positions in the first few years of our respective careers and we soon focused on buying a block of land and building a house. We saved enough for a deposit on the land and took on a mortgage worth a lot of money (not quite three quarters of a million dollars at the time—2006—but close enough to make me uncomfortable) for the purchase costs and the build. Interest rates were higher then and bounced around a lot but we were protected by naivety, our double income, and a thrifty nature.

We went to work. We paid our mortgage (which cost over $4,000 a month in the early days). We saved a bit where could, using high-interest savings accounts—and paying tax on the interest of course. We were scared to spend and saved hard to establish a buffer or rainy day account.

At one point, the CIO I was working under suggested to me the best thing we could do with our saving was reduce the interest costs on our mortgage by pushing our spare cash into the included redraw facility. If you’re not familiar with redraw, it works very much like an offset account: any money you put in reduces the principal on which you pay interest. Whereas an offset account is a separate transaction account, a redraw account is basically your mortgage account. The cash you push in can just as easily be pulled back out again. It’s not quite as flexible as an offset account but redraw didn’t attract any fees in our case.

Important note: there are significant downsides to redraw if you ever want to turn the property into an investment property—against which  you would likely want to claim tax deductions. The ATO considers payments into redraw as payments which reduce how much interest you can claim. So watch out for redraw and prefer an offset account instead which doesn’t have the same problem.

From this simple idea was born our financial strategy: manually move cash into the redraw account when it was available, thereby reducing interest costs. This approach would save us hundreds of thousands of dollars and result in the mortgage being paid off early. Oh and there would be no tax to pay (if our cash was instead held in a high-interest savings account or other investment vehicle we would pay tax on the earnings).

Meanwhile, the equity in our home was increasing. It’s now 2014, we’ve owned the block of land since mid-2006 and been in the house since mid-2008. As we worked at our jobs, the property market—and the property cycle—kept working in our favour too, ensuring the value of our house was aligned to the median house price and comparable recent sales in our area.

In round numbers, let’s say we’ve been living in the house for five years; in that time, the equity in the house has increased by over $400k. Of course there’s inflation to contend with and we spent close to $100k on very necessary post-construction activities like pouring a very long driveway (we’re on a rear block), building a deck and pergola, fencing, tiling, painting, carpets, blinds, built in vac, etc, etc.

Equity, locked up in a family home is like almost-free money. That’s simplistic, of course, because to access that “money” really and truly you’d need to sell the house and crystalise the gain which most people probably won’t want to do if they’re living in that house. But—and very importantly—the banks will loan money against that equity using a line of credit or an equity loan. You’ll pay interest just like any other bank loan but you can effectively do whatever you want to with that money such as use it to pay for a deposit on an investment property (or buy stocks or go on a holiday or whatever—but ask an accountant about the idea of mixing the purpose of the loan before you do anything other than attempt to generate money). A line of credit can be established for smaller amounts but can go quite high too—the bank site I’m looking at as I write suggests $750k and up.

At this point, we have a problem. We’ve got a plan to pay off our mortgage in ten years or less (by paying less interest, basically) and we’ve got increasing equity in our home. That’s good problem to have, I suppose! It also sounds like lazy money to me: money—or rather other people’s money (the bank’s)—that could be working for me to make more money (so I don’t have to) but that hasn’t been put to good use.

Following an initial conversation directly with our bank I realised we could be approved for an investment property mortgage and could effect the transaction with no money from our own pocket. Really. Nothing. We couldn’t get a 105% or 110% loan because they aren’t offered by the mainstream lenders post GFC but by combining a line of credit with an investment home loan we could cover all of the purchase costs and we’d avoid paying mortgage lender’s insurance.

Rental income would cover a significant majority of the ongoing costs and tax deductions would take us up near 95%, leaving only a small difference for us to pay. By my (pessimistic) calculations that works out to $4,000 or less a year.

The property will therefore be “negatively geared” but the plan is for it to become neutrally or positively geared in the years to come meaning it makes money (“net cashflow positive”) and costs me nothing in the long-term. All the while the equity in this first property is growing and can be used for other investments.

So we’ve redefined our financial strategy—I plan to dedicate a future post that topic. In short we’ve now outgrown what was a simplistic and great plan (put it all in redraw!) and are now thinking long-term and bigger picture (through retirement and on to death). I’ve done a lot of reading over the last six months and spoken to brokers, accountants, other investors, lenders, and solicitors to understand the moving parts when it comes to property investment. I have a lot more learning to do however!

I’ll write more about risk in the future as well but the way I see it property is in a sweet spot between shares and savings accounts. Understand the risks and they seem rather manageable for the long-term returns you hear about. [Update: see my post Risky Business? for my views in this area.]

A side note: I earned ten thousand dollars one summer as a young man planning bus routes for the school board in my area. Another long story but that money was invested in a handful of tech stocks around 1998/99—just before the tech bubble burst, if you’ll recall! I watched some of the five or six stocks I held soar magnificently in value but was mentored to hold for the long term and I neglected my instinct to sell and cash in the gains. The bubble burst soon enough and my $10k became almost worthless in a short matter of time. In retrospect, I probably bought when prices were already high so the correction left me hanging in the wind. In the next decade that money would have come in terribly handy for immigration to Australia, getting married, studying as an international student, and buying our first home. Of course by that time it was long gone. It’s easy to call stocks a gamble but there are reasons why I have no interest in stocks (to list some of those reasons quickly: market mentality, lack of control or direction over the investment, lack of time and interest to understand company fundamentals, and so on).

Super would be fine and dandy—apart from the fact any contributions are locked away until you reach your preservation age (55 in my case) and the canned investment options are built around securities (and property and cash). Self-managed super would be great, especially when it comes to property investment, but then the ATO won’t allow you to buy a block of land and improve it (build) and building new is what maximises your depreciation benefits.

Other options we considered were to simply save our income. This is simple and surely it’s safe, right? The bank guarantees your savings but it won’t protect your savings from inflation (which is roughly 3% a year on average). Most importantly, your money isn’t working hard enough, even if it is keeping pace with inflation. With interest rates so low, high-interest savings accounts are still quite boring in terms of their returns and term deposits, etc aren’t much better as far as I know.

So we’re starting with property. It costs very little to build an asset base that will grow in value over time and allow us to save tax. Our strategy, if you can’t tell, is very much buy and hold—forever.

Hopefully that gives you some context for the stories and tales that follow. Our situation is unique in that it is our own but in dollars and cents I think you’ll find we’re not all that different from you or your friends and neighbours. There are no secrets and no magic tricks. Yes, there are tricksters and sharks who will attempt to lead you astray and while they may not steal from you, you may not get what you expect in return for payment. There are alternative strategies and approaches you’ll come across, of course. And there is plenty to learn: the financial aspects are fascinating and then of course there’s the tax office and different state laws and functions to consider. As a simple person, however, I don’t believe this stuff is beyond my grasp… but I’ll keep you posted either way!

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,
Michael