Showing posts with label Performance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Performance. Show all posts

47 – How we saved 1 million dollars tax free

UsererYou may not have realised but the mortgage on your family home is one of the most flexible and safest “investment” vehicles available to you.

Let’s start at the beginning, with the basics. Say you take out an owner-occupier, principal and interest home loan from a bank for $750,000; the loan is for thirty years with a variable interest rate of 5.25%.

As an owner-occupier you’ll live in the home (note different factors, such as tax deductibility, are at play with an investment loan). Your interest rate will rise or fall depending on several factors, including the RBA’s official cash rate, regulatory changes—such as those implemented by APRA in recent years, market conditions, and the business outlook of the bank itself (such as exposure to business issues in other industries or countries).

As a principal and interest loan, you’ll start by paying off the interest (mainly) and your regular repayments will likely be about $4,100/month. You’ll pay that amount every month for thirty years. After 360 payments, you’ll have paid off the principal amount of $750k and nearly $750k again in interest.

So in a nutshell, your house will cost you twice as much as the price of the house itself if you take on a mortgage (I’m glossing over deposits and stamp duty, of course). That’s a lot of money!

This is why my #1 tip is to pay off your mortgage as soon as you can. To achieve this, negotiate annually with your bank to secure the best interest rate you can and move banks if you’re not happy; employ an offset account (don’t use redraw) to ensure all of your cash is being used to reduce the principal owing; switch to fortnightly or weekly repayments; throw everything you’ve got at your mortgage until it’s at least well under control if not obliterated—and by this I mean scrimp and save and defer buying the things you want for a few years.

Many banks and financial institutions offer interactive, visual calculators which demonstrate how changes in interest rates and repayment frequency will affect the total cost of your loan. Check out this calculator from CANSTAR, as one example. It was the looming threat of having to pay thousands of dollars every month, illustrated in a calculator like this, and the idea that our house would cost twice as much in interest, that drove me to our strategy of removing our home loan from our lives. 

Repayment Calculator

If you’ve got money squirrelled away elsewhere, it’s probably time to liquidate and toss it into you offset account. If you’re using a high interest savings account, the ATO will treat your earned savings as taxable income (which will be taxed at your marginal tax rate). The same goes for capital gains income from other investment vehicles such as stocks. Don’t forget your savings are also being eroded by inflation at a rate of ~3% every year—meaning your cash loses 3% of its value once every year to the point where you position is probably moving backwards.

Ask yourself if your other investments are earning you a return of 5% p.a. or more, after CPI and tax—where the 5% figure is taken from interest rate on your mortgage. You’ll likely find they’re not. Don’t forget to consider your risk exposure with these investments: when the next dotcom crash or GFC arrives, will your investments hold their current value?

By contrast, you live in your home and, while it’s not an income-producing asset, it is a huge (albeit generally low-risk) liability which will undermine your ability to purchase strong assets if not reduced. That said, no matter what happens, your house will provide you with shelter and warmth and privacy even if it drops in value or the worst happens: it’s something you can use.

Suppose you are taming the bear that is your mortgage: you’re chipping away at it using an offset account and making extra repayments. Meanwhile, the value of the security—the land on which your house sits—has likely increased in value. If you need a large amount of cash for that rainy day emergency, it’s immediately accessible to you from your offset account or by redrawing. In other words, your mortgage as a “reverse investment” (if that makes sense!) is not only low-risk but it’s fluid in that it can be rapidly converted into cash.

With the passage of time and increase in value of your property, you may now be able to take out a line of credit, effectively a mini-mortgage secured against the difference between the current value of your property and its original value or what’s been paid down (the equity but this is also called your “lazy money”—set it to work for you!). You could go silly and use this to fund a holiday or buy a fancy car but that would undo your hard work. Instead, use that available money to pay a deposit and costs for your first investment property. Welcome to the world of leverage.

The above is exactly what we did and we effectively paid down our mortgage in full in about eight years (ours was largely a dual-income family on average salaries for the majority of that time). From the line of credit, we’ve been able to extend ourselves into two investment properties, all the while saving somewhere between $500k – $1m in interest (depending on future interest rates), paying no additional tax, and watching the value of what is now our home increase rather than moving backwards, as cash would have.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

34 - Getting started, again

RepeatAs mentioned, we’re looking at doing it all again with a second investment property build on the cards. It’s not so much that the first property has already performed that well (it’s done neither well nor badly—it’s far to early to tell) but we’ve still got unused equity sitting in our family home and, hopefully—if the banks agree, some borrowing capacity. To be clear on this point, we’re not “duplicating” just yet.

Having been through the first IP build with Open Corp, we’re comfortable with the process and the principles. The land purchase, construction, and tenant selection for that property went very, very smoothly and I don’t think we could have expected more in a first purchase/build. I’d be very happy if we can match our first experience a second time around.

Sure, it would be great to see some strong initial growth in the Brisbane market but I’m confident that growth will come—if not in the next few years then in the next ten. The tenants only moved into the house in September and, very simply, we’re in this for the long-term: if the growth takes time, I don’t really care when it comes (assuming it will come eventually, of course!). Remember the Brisbane market has been flat for some time now (years) and everyone in the Australia was saying “it’s Brisbane’s turn in 2015”)… which didn’t happen. Now it’s a question of “when”. The sooner the better as that growth can then be leveraged to duplicate with no dependence on our family home.

Growth aside, the holding costs for the first IP are almost negligible (a final reckoning will come at tax time but even then we’ll have only a partial picture with the wife having been on maternity leave for most of this financial year).

Having been busy back at work myself for the last quarter, we’re looking to Open Corp again. As noted, I’m confident in their process but not so much in my ability to implement their process. It’s also a risk management thing to my mind, especially with these crucial first purchases. Open Corp have pointed us to Melbourne and identified some initial areas and properties to looks at.

I’ve meanwhile been speaking with our broker from Mortgage Choice, Nathan, to start the finance pre-approval wheels turning. Nathan and I met to go through a pre-assessment completed by Mortgage Choice, which gave us a rough indication of what we might (or might not) be able to borrow and which lenders might be in the mix.

In our case, we had only one lender to consider (one of the big four) following the recent belt tightening by the banks and the banking sector regulators and so we’re moving forward on that basis. As with the IP#1 pre-approval, we had to submit pay slips, credit card statements, bank account and mortgage statements, drivers licenses and passports, and the tenancy agreement for the first investment property.

All just a formality—or so it should be—but it all got a little bit hairy since my employment contract runs out early next year and I haven’t (yet) been offered a new contract. My wife already has contracts signed for when she returns to work from maternity leave and, interestingly, while the bank wouldn’t consider her future income, they were insistent on sighting her contracts. They also requested a letter from my employer stating my current arrangements and that they would (in principle) be on-going.

Mortgage Choice tells me we had a particularly hard bank-side assessor (especially for a pre-approval, thought I!) but we prevailed in the end. I find there’s no point in stressing about financing as the ultimate decision is beyond my control. It’s more a case of follow the bouncing ball, supply the information requested in a timely matter, and hope for the best!

We’re now back to Open Corp and waiting for a block to come available before our pre-approval expires in thirty days.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

9 - Performance Measurement

My wife is my yardstick for measuring reality. I’m admittedly a bit of a dreamer at times (with the ability to get mired in the details, mind!) but my Dr. wife, being smarter than me, is always ready to offer the checks and balances I occasionally require to cool me off when I get carried away.

Part of that is because she hasn’t learned what I’ve learned so she asks a lot of tough questions which forces me to think hard about the answers. She’s also far more conservative than I am and could probably be labelled a reluctant partner in all of this—her preferred approach to investment is to save cash in the bank.

Related to all of this, Cam McLellan over at Open Wealth, with who we’re building our first investment property, did an early podcast on the subject of what he calls “Dream Crushers”. A Dream Crusher tells you what they think (i.e. which is usually a negative, subjective view about what you’re thinking about doing) without having the experience or objective education on the particular subject to support their comments. This commentary gets you down and ultimately prevents you from taking action. The wife is effectively my lead Dream Crusher—although she usually comes around, either because I babble at her so much she wants to shut me up or because what I’m saying makes sense to her and she comes to understand my intention.

Which leads me into the subject of today’s post.

The investment strategy I had yet to—until yesterday—articulate to my beloved wife was to complete construction of IP #1 by mid-year (ish) and look at identifying and securing finance for IP #2 (and possibly IP #3) through the end of Q3 and the start of Q4 2015. This would tie in well with the fact I’d be back at work full time by that point, which the banks would hopefully look at favourably in terms of debt serviceability.

Then my wife hit me with her strategy: evaluate the performance of IP #1 before rushing forward. To me that was the sound of the cord being pulled and the lights going out. Fizzle. Zap. “No more property investing for you, dear hubby!”

We didn’t speak more on the matter initially but her comments certainly got me thinking: what is the detailed set of criteria we might use to define performance?

I’ve honestly been a little bit stumped about how to measure performance for a while now.

The easy one, of course, is a doubling in value (capital increase of 100%) every 7-11 years for good metro properties. The market will generally do this for you unless you’re adding value somehow (i.e. through renovations or infrastructure projects coming online).

Gross—or better yet—net rental yield is a good starting point as it’s a metric that’s easy to calculate and track.

Perhaps more important is the transition from negative gearing to neutral or positive gearing within a timeframe you can afford. Let’s say 1 to 5 or 7 years. This might happen in a number of different ways. Rents increase. Debt might be reduced or retired (but I wouldn’t take this approach) and interest rates might move—down like we’re seeing these days. You earned income may increase as you progress in your career, allowing for more effective tax deductions.

The conclusion that I’ve come to is performance must be measured over specified time intervals: 1 year (or less initially); 3 years; 5 years; 10 years; 15 years; 20 years. My strategy is to hold for the very long term and hence I believe performance should therefore be measured over the long term too. Hopefully in that time our property would have become positively geared and seen reliable capital growth.

Simply looking at results year on year doesn’t work for me. A property might be sitting pretty one year but take a step backwards the next before recovering again in year three, for example. The contextual economics need to be factored in to your assessment at the very least and this will happen automatically by measuring performance over a multi-year period.

More importantly, deciding to invest or not invest in a second property, which will likely be in a different suburb if not a different market (i.e. a different capital city), based on the performance of the first property isn’t an equitable comparison.

There are also other factors that I’ll say are beyond your control, for lack of a better expression. Let’s say you buy a negatively geared property in the years before you retire.  Your income is hopefully at the highest level it ever has been and so your tax deductions go further and, were you to keep working, that negatively geared property might be able to generate a positive cash flow for you in a few years.

And then you retire, hopefully with structures in place that will minimise your tax burden. Realistically your income will likely decrease in retirement. But what about those deductions?! That negatively geared property might remain that way for longer than you anticipate if you’re not able to pay down debt. At worst, it might eat into your retirement income and put a hold on your big retirement plans. Moreover that property may have seen only insignificant capital growth in the short term, making any sale not worthwhile despite the potential CGT savings.

If you’re younger, as I am, what if you’re working full-time one year but not earning at all the next? This is my reality as a stay-at-home dad. Bring forward tax deductions, yes, but that muddies the waters somewhat across the financial year boundaries.

Tenant churn might be a problem. That is, you might struggle to retain tenants, leading to more vacancy periods than another investor might have with an elderly couple who’ve been in the rental for a decade—doing their own light maintenance no less! (I read an investor profile just like this one in API). If you’ve got a strong property manager now, what happens if he or she moves on and you’re left with an average manager?

What about bad tenants? Insurance claims? Construction defects if you’re building new?

Interest rates may (will) increase, reducing positive cash flow.

Special circumstances may also intervene. Let’s say you lose a tenant for a length of time greater than you planned for because a major industry pulls out of the local market and rental demand evaporates. Or a flood leads to a broad stagnation in the market in terms of capital growth (as per Brisbane). I can only imagine what impact the earthquakes in New Zealand had on rental property there.

If you’re holding long-term, these sorts of events that occur in one year, or even over a number of years, don’t necessarily mean you’ve bought a dud. It might, if you’re being forced to subsidise a negatively geared property you easily can’t afford—in which case you’ll probably want the situation to come good within a defined time period (i.e. five to ten years); you’ll also need to decide whether that subsidy is worth the cost to you—especially if it’s not a burden. The selling costs (agent’s fees, possibly CGT, timing, etc)—coupled with the costs to acquire a replacement property (stamp duty, possibly LMI, time lost in the market)—make selling off an “underperforming” asset problematic.

I’ve written previously that time heals all problems but the flip side to this statement, of course, is that time is not on our side! Even for me as a relatively young man I’ll only get two to three decades (two to three growth cycles) before we both retire and our earned income dries up. With a goal of holding 6-10 properties at minimum, and natural constraints around how quickly we can do that, time is most definitely not on our side!

I’ll keep working through this one but I wanted to share while the subject was front of mind.

I’ve been reading a lot of Robert Kiyosaki lately so I’ll close by highlighting a recurring theme in all of his Rich Dad books: don’t buy investments that will cost you money. Speaking to us Aussies, I’m pretty sure he’d say “buy positively geared properties, mate”. That doesn’t completely solve our performance question—a positively geared property could revert back—but it’s a sound idea where it’s possible to find and buy such an asset.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael