Showing posts with label Other People's Money. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Other People's Money. Show all posts

48 - Making Money Lazy

LazyUp until lately we’ve been on a roll: a few years back the equity loan was approved against our family home—putting that “lazy money” to work for us, and we were approved for and built our first two investment properties using the bank’s money.

But things are tight these days in the banking and credit sector and, with only one income, our ability to service additional loans is viewed as risky by the big lenders. Which of course sucks because we have a sizeable “rainy day” fund, the wife is in a well-paid job, and we have a very strong history of paying our bills on time and saving.

In other words, we still have income coming in but no option (currently) to invest it in additional properties without tying up our own funds. Our mortgage broker said “no” :’(

This situation leads to the holding pattern which is Plan B: reducing interest payable on the investment property loans. In other words, we’ve started stashing our spare cash in the offset accounts attached to the interest-only investment loans. This cash is therefore fluid—it can be withdrawn at any moment—and, because we’re using the offset accounts instead of paying down the loan as principal and interest (or paying into redraw), interest on the full loan amount remains deductible if and when we do withdrawn cash in the future.

While I’d prefer to be building our property portfolio (the median house price moves forever upwards) using the bank’s money and tax-deductible debt to achieve long-term growth, at least we’re saving interest. In fact this is the exact strategy we adopted with our PPOR—but of course, interest on that debt was not not tax-deductible and there were different variables at work there.

The biggest problem I have now is our money could be working harder. Although it could be said we’re retiring debt (sort of), this is good debt and I don’t want to retire it… I want to use our money to borrow other people’s money so it can be put to work for us! Interest rates are low and likely to stay that way for the near-term and if we could buy again now, at today’s median house price or just below, we could achieve cheap capital growth over the next few years.

We’ll review things again in six month intervals—both serviceability but also capital growth of our existing investment properties, which may allow us to leverage that equity to fund a larger deposit for IP #3. But that’s not how I’d prefer to do it.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

47 – How we saved 1 million dollars tax free

UsererYou may not have realised but the mortgage on your family home is one of the most flexible and safest “investment” vehicles available to you.

Let’s start at the beginning, with the basics. Say you take out an owner-occupier, principal and interest home loan from a bank for $750,000; the loan is for thirty years with a variable interest rate of 5.25%.

As an owner-occupier you’ll live in the home (note different factors, such as tax deductibility, are at play with an investment loan). Your interest rate will rise or fall depending on several factors, including the RBA’s official cash rate, regulatory changes—such as those implemented by APRA in recent years, market conditions, and the business outlook of the bank itself (such as exposure to business issues in other industries or countries).

As a principal and interest loan, you’ll start by paying off the interest (mainly) and your regular repayments will likely be about $4,100/month. You’ll pay that amount every month for thirty years. After 360 payments, you’ll have paid off the principal amount of $750k and nearly $750k again in interest.

So in a nutshell, your house will cost you twice as much as the price of the house itself if you take on a mortgage (I’m glossing over deposits and stamp duty, of course). That’s a lot of money!

This is why my #1 tip is to pay off your mortgage as soon as you can. To achieve this, negotiate annually with your bank to secure the best interest rate you can and move banks if you’re not happy; employ an offset account (don’t use redraw) to ensure all of your cash is being used to reduce the principal owing; switch to fortnightly or weekly repayments; throw everything you’ve got at your mortgage until it’s at least well under control if not obliterated—and by this I mean scrimp and save and defer buying the things you want for a few years.

Many banks and financial institutions offer interactive, visual calculators which demonstrate how changes in interest rates and repayment frequency will affect the total cost of your loan. Check out this calculator from CANSTAR, as one example. It was the looming threat of having to pay thousands of dollars every month, illustrated in a calculator like this, and the idea that our house would cost twice as much in interest, that drove me to our strategy of removing our home loan from our lives. 

Repayment Calculator

If you’ve got money squirrelled away elsewhere, it’s probably time to liquidate and toss it into you offset account. If you’re using a high interest savings account, the ATO will treat your earned savings as taxable income (which will be taxed at your marginal tax rate). The same goes for capital gains income from other investment vehicles such as stocks. Don’t forget your savings are also being eroded by inflation at a rate of ~3% every year—meaning your cash loses 3% of its value once every year to the point where you position is probably moving backwards.

Ask yourself if your other investments are earning you a return of 5% p.a. or more, after CPI and tax—where the 5% figure is taken from interest rate on your mortgage. You’ll likely find they’re not. Don’t forget to consider your risk exposure with these investments: when the next dotcom crash or GFC arrives, will your investments hold their current value?

By contrast, you live in your home and, while it’s not an income-producing asset, it is a huge (albeit generally low-risk) liability which will undermine your ability to purchase strong assets if not reduced. That said, no matter what happens, your house will provide you with shelter and warmth and privacy even if it drops in value or the worst happens: it’s something you can use.

Suppose you are taming the bear that is your mortgage: you’re chipping away at it using an offset account and making extra repayments. Meanwhile, the value of the security—the land on which your house sits—has likely increased in value. If you need a large amount of cash for that rainy day emergency, it’s immediately accessible to you from your offset account or by redrawing. In other words, your mortgage as a “reverse investment” (if that makes sense!) is not only low-risk but it’s fluid in that it can be rapidly converted into cash.

With the passage of time and increase in value of your property, you may now be able to take out a line of credit, effectively a mini-mortgage secured against the difference between the current value of your property and its original value or what’s been paid down (the equity but this is also called your “lazy money”—set it to work for you!). You could go silly and use this to fund a holiday or buy a fancy car but that would undo your hard work. Instead, use that available money to pay a deposit and costs for your first investment property. Welcome to the world of leverage.

The above is exactly what we did and we effectively paid down our mortgage in full in about eight years (ours was largely a dual-income family on average salaries for the majority of that time). From the line of credit, we’ve been able to extend ourselves into two investment properties, all the while saving somewhere between $500k – $1m in interest (depending on future interest rates), paying no additional tax, and watching the value of what is now our home increase rather than moving backwards, as cash would have.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

35 - Subprime Equity Loans

abandoned-house-auburn-2008jpg-089b37cb6d68e85b_largeGemma and I watched Michael Moore’s documentary Capitalism: A Love Story the other night. In the film, Moore connects the sale of suspect equity loans in the US and the ensuing subprime housing collapse. I first read about all of this in The Big Short: Inside the Doomsday Machine by Michael Lewis and it was a fascinating recounting but given how we’ve structured our investment property loans I thought it’s important to distinguish between a subprime equity loan and an equity loan in Australia.

From what I understand (and the entire situation was designed to be incredibly complicated), bank deregulation in the US lead to the availability of cheap finance for people who couldn’t actually afford to make the repayments. Banks, politicians, capitalism—you know what a dangerous cocktail that is. The US financial system then created products which bundled up those loans and subsequently sold products which bet against the homeowners making their repayments (derivatives and collateralised debt obligations or CDOs). It was only a matter of time until the foreclosures started rolling in en-masse and a few people got rich while a lot of people lost a lot of money.

Banking regulations are much tighter in Australia but more importantly I wouldn’t take on a loan if I hadn’t myself assessed our ability to afford the repayments. In other words, the closest we got in Australia in recent times to a subprime situation was around 2006 and the banking regulators here put a stop to all of that pretty quickly (and of course what was happening in Australia was nothing like what was allowed to happen in the US). From recent experience, I can vouch for the bank’s rigour in assessing our credit situation—it’s only gotten harder to get credit in the last few years, especially with the 2015 changes implemented by the Australian Prudential Regulation Authority.

As always, there is lot of information circulation about what’s good and what’s bad from sources which are good and bad. It’s important to do your own research and make your own decisions before acting but don’t forget it’s equally important to do something so inflation doesn’t do it for you.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

34 - Getting started, again

RepeatAs mentioned, we’re looking at doing it all again with a second investment property build on the cards. It’s not so much that the first property has already performed that well (it’s done neither well nor badly—it’s far to early to tell) but we’ve still got unused equity sitting in our family home and, hopefully—if the banks agree, some borrowing capacity. To be clear on this point, we’re not “duplicating” just yet.

Having been through the first IP build with Open Corp, we’re comfortable with the process and the principles. The land purchase, construction, and tenant selection for that property went very, very smoothly and I don’t think we could have expected more in a first purchase/build. I’d be very happy if we can match our first experience a second time around.

Sure, it would be great to see some strong initial growth in the Brisbane market but I’m confident that growth will come—if not in the next few years then in the next ten. The tenants only moved into the house in September and, very simply, we’re in this for the long-term: if the growth takes time, I don’t really care when it comes (assuming it will come eventually, of course!). Remember the Brisbane market has been flat for some time now (years) and everyone in the Australia was saying “it’s Brisbane’s turn in 2015”)… which didn’t happen. Now it’s a question of “when”. The sooner the better as that growth can then be leveraged to duplicate with no dependence on our family home.

Growth aside, the holding costs for the first IP are almost negligible (a final reckoning will come at tax time but even then we’ll have only a partial picture with the wife having been on maternity leave for most of this financial year).

Having been busy back at work myself for the last quarter, we’re looking to Open Corp again. As noted, I’m confident in their process but not so much in my ability to implement their process. It’s also a risk management thing to my mind, especially with these crucial first purchases. Open Corp have pointed us to Melbourne and identified some initial areas and properties to looks at.

I’ve meanwhile been speaking with our broker from Mortgage Choice, Nathan, to start the finance pre-approval wheels turning. Nathan and I met to go through a pre-assessment completed by Mortgage Choice, which gave us a rough indication of what we might (or might not) be able to borrow and which lenders might be in the mix.

In our case, we had only one lender to consider (one of the big four) following the recent belt tightening by the banks and the banking sector regulators and so we’re moving forward on that basis. As with the IP#1 pre-approval, we had to submit pay slips, credit card statements, bank account and mortgage statements, drivers licenses and passports, and the tenancy agreement for the first investment property.

All just a formality—or so it should be—but it all got a little bit hairy since my employment contract runs out early next year and I haven’t (yet) been offered a new contract. My wife already has contracts signed for when she returns to work from maternity leave and, interestingly, while the bank wouldn’t consider her future income, they were insistent on sighting her contracts. They also requested a letter from my employer stating my current arrangements and that they would (in principle) be on-going.

Mortgage Choice tells me we had a particularly hard bank-side assessor (especially for a pre-approval, thought I!) but we prevailed in the end. I find there’s no point in stressing about financing as the ultimate decision is beyond my control. It’s more a case of follow the bouncing ball, supply the information requested in a timely matter, and hope for the best!

We’re now back to Open Corp and waiting for a block to come available before our pre-approval expires in thirty days.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

9 - Performance Measurement

My wife is my yardstick for measuring reality. I’m admittedly a bit of a dreamer at times (with the ability to get mired in the details, mind!) but my Dr. wife, being smarter than me, is always ready to offer the checks and balances I occasionally require to cool me off when I get carried away.

Part of that is because she hasn’t learned what I’ve learned so she asks a lot of tough questions which forces me to think hard about the answers. She’s also far more conservative than I am and could probably be labelled a reluctant partner in all of this—her preferred approach to investment is to save cash in the bank.

Related to all of this, Cam McLellan over at Open Wealth, with who we’re building our first investment property, did an early podcast on the subject of what he calls “Dream Crushers”. A Dream Crusher tells you what they think (i.e. which is usually a negative, subjective view about what you’re thinking about doing) without having the experience or objective education on the particular subject to support their comments. This commentary gets you down and ultimately prevents you from taking action. The wife is effectively my lead Dream Crusher—although she usually comes around, either because I babble at her so much she wants to shut me up or because what I’m saying makes sense to her and she comes to understand my intention.

Which leads me into the subject of today’s post.

The investment strategy I had yet to—until yesterday—articulate to my beloved wife was to complete construction of IP #1 by mid-year (ish) and look at identifying and securing finance for IP #2 (and possibly IP #3) through the end of Q3 and the start of Q4 2015. This would tie in well with the fact I’d be back at work full time by that point, which the banks would hopefully look at favourably in terms of debt serviceability.

Then my wife hit me with her strategy: evaluate the performance of IP #1 before rushing forward. To me that was the sound of the cord being pulled and the lights going out. Fizzle. Zap. “No more property investing for you, dear hubby!”

We didn’t speak more on the matter initially but her comments certainly got me thinking: what is the detailed set of criteria we might use to define performance?

I’ve honestly been a little bit stumped about how to measure performance for a while now.

The easy one, of course, is a doubling in value (capital increase of 100%) every 7-11 years for good metro properties. The market will generally do this for you unless you’re adding value somehow (i.e. through renovations or infrastructure projects coming online).

Gross—or better yet—net rental yield is a good starting point as it’s a metric that’s easy to calculate and track.

Perhaps more important is the transition from negative gearing to neutral or positive gearing within a timeframe you can afford. Let’s say 1 to 5 or 7 years. This might happen in a number of different ways. Rents increase. Debt might be reduced or retired (but I wouldn’t take this approach) and interest rates might move—down like we’re seeing these days. You earned income may increase as you progress in your career, allowing for more effective tax deductions.

The conclusion that I’ve come to is performance must be measured over specified time intervals: 1 year (or less initially); 3 years; 5 years; 10 years; 15 years; 20 years. My strategy is to hold for the very long term and hence I believe performance should therefore be measured over the long term too. Hopefully in that time our property would have become positively geared and seen reliable capital growth.

Simply looking at results year on year doesn’t work for me. A property might be sitting pretty one year but take a step backwards the next before recovering again in year three, for example. The contextual economics need to be factored in to your assessment at the very least and this will happen automatically by measuring performance over a multi-year period.

More importantly, deciding to invest or not invest in a second property, which will likely be in a different suburb if not a different market (i.e. a different capital city), based on the performance of the first property isn’t an equitable comparison.

There are also other factors that I’ll say are beyond your control, for lack of a better expression. Let’s say you buy a negatively geared property in the years before you retire.  Your income is hopefully at the highest level it ever has been and so your tax deductions go further and, were you to keep working, that negatively geared property might be able to generate a positive cash flow for you in a few years.

And then you retire, hopefully with structures in place that will minimise your tax burden. Realistically your income will likely decrease in retirement. But what about those deductions?! That negatively geared property might remain that way for longer than you anticipate if you’re not able to pay down debt. At worst, it might eat into your retirement income and put a hold on your big retirement plans. Moreover that property may have seen only insignificant capital growth in the short term, making any sale not worthwhile despite the potential CGT savings.

If you’re younger, as I am, what if you’re working full-time one year but not earning at all the next? This is my reality as a stay-at-home dad. Bring forward tax deductions, yes, but that muddies the waters somewhat across the financial year boundaries.

Tenant churn might be a problem. That is, you might struggle to retain tenants, leading to more vacancy periods than another investor might have with an elderly couple who’ve been in the rental for a decade—doing their own light maintenance no less! (I read an investor profile just like this one in API). If you’ve got a strong property manager now, what happens if he or she moves on and you’re left with an average manager?

What about bad tenants? Insurance claims? Construction defects if you’re building new?

Interest rates may (will) increase, reducing positive cash flow.

Special circumstances may also intervene. Let’s say you lose a tenant for a length of time greater than you planned for because a major industry pulls out of the local market and rental demand evaporates. Or a flood leads to a broad stagnation in the market in terms of capital growth (as per Brisbane). I can only imagine what impact the earthquakes in New Zealand had on rental property there.

If you’re holding long-term, these sorts of events that occur in one year, or even over a number of years, don’t necessarily mean you’ve bought a dud. It might, if you’re being forced to subsidise a negatively geared property you easily can’t afford—in which case you’ll probably want the situation to come good within a defined time period (i.e. five to ten years); you’ll also need to decide whether that subsidy is worth the cost to you—especially if it’s not a burden. The selling costs (agent’s fees, possibly CGT, timing, etc)—coupled with the costs to acquire a replacement property (stamp duty, possibly LMI, time lost in the market)—make selling off an “underperforming” asset problematic.

I’ve written previously that time heals all problems but the flip side to this statement, of course, is that time is not on our side! Even for me as a relatively young man I’ll only get two to three decades (two to three growth cycles) before we both retire and our earned income dries up. With a goal of holding 6-10 properties at minimum, and natural constraints around how quickly we can do that, time is most definitely not on our side!

I’ll keep working through this one but I wanted to share while the subject was front of mind.

I’ve been reading a lot of Robert Kiyosaki lately so I’ll close by highlighting a recurring theme in all of his Rich Dad books: don’t buy investments that will cost you money. Speaking to us Aussies, I’m pretty sure he’d say “buy positively geared properties, mate”. That doesn’t completely solve our performance question—a positively geared property could revert back—but it’s a sound idea where it’s possible to find and buy such an asset.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

5 - How to Spend Money

This is simple but for so many people the concept is something from the stratosphere. My rules are as follows:

  1. Don’t spend money
  2. Use other people’s money (a mortgage to buy property, interest free periods on a credit card) when you have to spend money
  3. Build your credit history (if you’re new to borrowing)

Let me explain in a bit more detail…

1. Don’t Spend Money

This is really the golden rule. Some people might choose to read this as “don’t spend money you don’t have” but see Rule #2 before you adopt that approach. But there’s no need to interpret the wording at all: just don’t spend money!

Although simple in theory, this is extremely difficult for many people to implement in practice. We’re used to spending money and our culture conditions us to spend more money than we need through marketing and advertising and by watching our friends and families succeed. Break the habit, become wealthier, spare the planet the extra plastic, and change the world, maaaaan!!! Ignore the adverts and recognise and accept your friends might be earning more money than you are/in a different financial situation to yours/stupider than you are. Spending money is not a measure of success or intelligence.

If you don’t need something, don’t buy it. Live frugally, is what I always say (rather than calling myself cheap!). Don’t live in the moment and buy impulsively. The time for spending money will come but right now you need to accumulate money and wealth and the easiest way to do this is via the magical effects of compounding, a subject on which I’ll write more about in detail another day. For now, just understand the less money you throw away, the more money you’ll have to make more money.

Before you whip our your credit card, stop and think whether what you’re about to buy is going to increase the number of days (or months or years) you’re going to have a mortgage to repay—or increase the time it’s going to take to save up a deposit for a first home loan. Ask yourself if this doodad, that beer, this seemingly insignificant expenditure is really necessary to your wellbeing and fulfilment. Can it wait another month? Another year? I remember when I first reviewed the interest costs on our PPOR mortgage: over the thirty year term, we would ultimately end up paying the bank the value of our home again. The quicker we could repay the principal, the less we’d pay on interest.

The best way not to spend money is to understand what you need to spend to survive (i.e. a plan or budget—anything), spend that amount and record the transactions against your plan or budget, and treat  yourself occasionally but in moderation.

There are also many subtleties at play here. Never spend money on a depreciating asset like a car—i.e. don’t buy cars, at least not new ones, until you can genuinely afford to. Don’t buy an ultra HD curved OLED television. Don’t waste food. If you’re spending more than $50 a month on booze, you’re spending too much. Definitely don’t smoke or quit if you do. Take it easy on the holidays. Don’t eat out too much.

There are also some really easy things you can do. Buy store brand ketchup instead of Heinz ketchup. Mow your own lawn. Change your behaviours by wearing your clothes for a second season instead of refreshing your wardrobe every three months. Use grocery store fuel vouchers to save on petrol. Pay your bills on time to avoid fees. Ensure you’re never in a position where you have to pay late payment fees or, worse, credit card interest. Make your lunch and take it to work instead of buying lunch every day. Cancel your cable TV subscription. Become a vegetarian and stop eating meat. Ride a bike to work instead of catching the bus or train (or worse, driving your car and paying for parking). As you start thinking like this, you find all sorts of ways to save a few dollars and as my mom always said: “every penny counts!”

Keep the achievement of your long-term goals front of mind and what you give up today is easier to bear. We took on a $700k+ mortgage in 2006; it’s all but paid off less than ten years later through moderate (minimal, really) spending and careful saving.

Edit: Please read my follow up post “Think Rich”—it explores a valid counterpoint to this concept.

2. Use Other People’s Money

If you insist on spending money, don’t use your money, use someone else’s money—at least for as long as you can and if you can do so for free.

Credit cards are considered intrinsically evil by some people but if these facilities are not abused they can be used to your advantage. As long as your balance owing is paid by the due date—that is, you have the cash flow to afford what you’ve purchased—you won’t have any interest to pay for the privilege of borrowing that amount for up to sixty days.

We buy everything (EVERYTHING—except purchases that attract a fee) on a single credit card with a reasonable limit and we pay the credit card bill on time. Our typical credit card bills run between $2,000 and $3,000 (more around Christmas, sometimes less after a really good month); instead of being paid for immediately from our cash, the value of our monthly spend is being lent to us at no charge by the credit card company. During that interest free period, that lent money is working for us in our offset account—reducing the amount on which mortgage interest is charged.

The added bonus is having the majority of our transactions centralised on one card, which makes it easy to know how much we’re spending month to month; it’s also easy to spot any problems. I typically pay off the credit card, in full, a day or two before it’s due to maximise the credit benefit.

The key takeaway here is to never pay interest on your credit card. Most cards will charge interest at an annual rate of around 20%. This adds up to lot of money—I’m always astounded how my credit card statement tells me if I only pay the minimum amount I’ll pay off the closing balance in “58 years and 07 months” and “end up paying an estimated total interest charge of $22,828”! That’s crazy talk.

If you get stuck with credit card debt, plan on getting rid of that debt first before anything else because it will most likely be the highest interest rate you’re faced with (apart from a bad car loan, perhaps). Call your credit card company and have a chat with them about a repayment plan or an interest-free period—ask to speak to the manager if necessary. If your card company won’t help—and by help I mean be very generous to you—roll over the balance on the card to a new card with a 0% introductory balance for 12 months or whatever period you can find. Hopefully that will give you enough time to clear the debt without the interest burden accumulating on top of the original amount.

Finally, I don’t use cards that incur an annual fee just for the sake of a few perks.

When it comes to your home loan, you also need to be careful. If you have a number of debts (i.e. a car loan, credit card, personal loan, etc) you may be offered the option of consolidating all those loans into your home loan. The benefit of doing so is a better interest rate: instead of a 20% rate for your card debt, you’ll be paying 5% at today’s rates. The downside is that debt will follow you for the term of your home loan, meaning the interest on the amount you’ve consolidated will compound every year until it’s repaid—along with x number of years of interest. You could end up paying off that new car for thirty years—long after the car is gone!

You might similarly be tempted to refinance your home to free up equity for a holiday or a new toy (boat?) or a swimming pool. This is easily done but, again, be mindful that in doing so you’re hiding the true cost and using money you can’t really afford.

Credit cards and home loans are generally considered “bad debt” because it’s money that doesn’t work for you. Consider the alternative: “good debt”. This is money borrowed that you in turn use to make money through investing in real estate, a business, or stocks. In contrast to the loan on your PPOR which will cost you money on interest (this interest cannot be claimed as a tax deduction), a investment property mortgage will serve to earn you money. So as a footnote to this section, if you’re buying an investment property, use the bank’s money—secured by the equity in your home—instead of putting down your cash that can be better used elsewhere.

A student loan like a HECS debt is also someone else’s money. If you have the option to reduce interest by making early repayments, ask yourself if the cost of holding onto that loan and not making early repayments will allow you to use that money more productively elsewhere. How much will you save by making early repayments? How much do you stand to make by investing the value of those repayments elsewhere (e.g. in an offset transaction account, saving you interest of say 5% at today’s rates on your PPOR mortgage)?

3. Build your Credit History

If you’re new to property and are looking to take on your first home loan in the next twelve months or so you’re probably also saving for a deposit and implementing a lot of the tips I’ve offered above—good on you. The next step is to ensure you have some form of credit history for lenders to look at when assessing your eventual loan application. To carry on from Rule #2, the easiest way to build your credit history is to take on a single credit card, use it, and ensure it’s paid off in full by the due date. This will help identify you as a borrower with a proven track record of debt repayment—through both intention and financial means.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

3 - First Steps

There are so many subtle decisions and parallel steps in the property buying process it’s hard to know where to start in describing how we went from A to B. I suppose I’ll start at the very beginning, following our decision residential property investment was the thing for us.

Selecting an Investment Advisor

I’ve written about our “A-Team” previously so won’t reiterate the contents of that post here. Suffice to say we knew we’d need to decide on an individual or company to assist us to select a market, suburb, and property. I considered the risks too high to attempt this on my own, the first time around. You might do this yourself, someone might do it for you at no cost to you, or you might pay someone to provide this service (such as a broker).

I met with a few property investment companies and ultimately decided to move forward with Open Wealth Creation. We aligned to the Open Wealth methodology because it made sense and the Open Wealth team provided a large quantity of quality educational materials at no charge (a reminder, this blog is not an advertisement or referral for any of the entities I mention in these posts).

As we evaluated Open Wealth, I was also interacting with Joyce Property (based in Perth) but I opted not to move forward with them because they also promote and sell apartments; I don’t believe apartments are a good residential investment and I believe if you’re spruiking apartments you’re not working in the interest of those who are investing with your firm. Notably, Joyce does not charge a fee for their services, whereas Open Wealth do charge a fee. Joyce are obviously a very experienced organisation (I met with Graham Joyce and he oozes professional history). 

My wife and I also met with a representative from Investmark and I attended a seminar and had a follow up meeting with IPG but neither were up to the task I set them and seemingly just wanted to shift stock onto naive investors. Their eyes widened when we first explained how much useable equity we had but neither one followed up with me, despite prompting, when I asked them to back up their claims. The free IPG seminar was more or less promising and it seemed like what they were selling was based on good research. At the end of the day, both felt very slippery, verging on dodgy.

Finally, I met with Nicheliving a few times (primarily for their mortgage brokering services but initially for their house and land packages). They’re obviously big in WA but were really pushing us towards NRAS properties and their approach seemed somewhat thick. I knew pretty quickly I wanted to be building in Queensland (Brisbane) but it was worth the discussion with Nicheliving. Nicheliving are a one stop shop, which might be a good thing (or might not!). Their advertising also shows a dude holding wads of cash so it seemed like they target the get rich quick crowd which is not what I’m about.

Getting Money

In parallel with the discussions I was having with these advisors and property development firms, I initiated contact with our current bank and with the mortgage broker we used when purchasing our PPOR.

Although I didn’t intend to send the investment property mortgage to the bank that holds the mortgage over our PPOR, I needed to understand how much equity we had in our family home and, secondarily, how much they thought we could borrow. This turned out to be a good move as the bank was able to very quickly order a full valuation at no charge to me and it turned out to be a very positive engagement in terms of learning how to to converse successfully with the bank. Importantly, because the bank ordered the valuation directly, I was able to get a copy (I wasn’t able to get a copy when our mortgage broker requested a second valuation—which also went through the bank…). 

I wasn’t as impressed with the bank’s view about our loan serviceability—and in turn how much they would lend us; this was due primarily to the fact we’re a single-income family. Nonetheless, the home loan specialist I dealt with was immensely useful in helping me to understand the value of our family home and how we might go about refinancing its corresponding mortgage and optionally financing the investment property purchase. The specialist was also able to share the valuation report with me and it was helpful to see how the valuer saw our property (interestingly, we have a four bedroom house—as per the plans I supplied to him—but he recorded and valued the property as a three bedroom house with a study…).

I didn’t want the bank which has our PPOR mortgage to also hold our IP mortgage because I didn’t want to cross-securitise the loans. I highlighted this when I spoke to our bank and was reassured it wouldn’t be a problem but I’ve read a single lender holding both mortgages will always ensure they come out best in the event of any problems. Yes, we might have secured a lower interest rate and it would have been convenient having everything in one place but I’d only consider a single bank scenario if we eventually get to the world of private banking.

Following that initial conversation with the bank I also got in touch with a mortgage broker. Broker’s are often recommended and, as mentioned, we’d had success with a broker when mortgaging our PPOR (we used Mortgage Choice). You can do your homework and check out products from each of the banks on your own but why bother when using a mortgage broker doesn’t cost you anything and they’re already familiar with countless loan products? The broker I dealt with reassured me Mortgage Choice is paid the same commission for all of the products they recommend, removing the opportunity for the broker to recommend one product above another that will earn them more money; of course I’m not sure how true that is.

Our broker told me he has a few investment properties himself and I think finding people who understand investment property is really important because they’ll have a better appreciation of the path you’re following. As some of our requirements were different to your mortgage broker’s average client requirements (more on that in a moment), I wanted to structure our loans differently than what the broker first had in mind. At the end of the day the broker was able to find the products we needed, submit the applications (he walked through every line on the application forms with me), and secure an interest rate on the main loan that is 0.02% better than what that bank would have offered had I gone to them directly.

With my wife being a doctor, it turned out she was also eligible for a partial LMI waiver (this is one of the interesting requirement I mentioned earlier). Essentially, some lenders will offer members of specific professions an LMI waiver on the basis that they present a lower risk as borrowers. Search for LMI discount or see here for examples—you may be surprised what you find. I certainly wish I’d known about this offer/wish it existed when we purchased our PPOR as we had some major cash flow problems for a little while when we first had to sort out stamp duty and then LMI (and then retaining walls)!

Both of the brokers I was dealing with (Mortgage Choice and Nicheliving) were across the major lenders offering LMI waivers (initially CBA and Westpac but now ANZ and possibly Macquarie and St Georges) and we ended up being able to borrow 90% of the IP costs without incurring LMI. Note the 10% balance was paid from the line of credit secured against the equity in our PPOR but we could have done an 80/20 split if necessary. You can take the latter approach too if you don’t qualify for an LMI waiver but don’t want to pay LMI and have sufficient equity.

Mortgage Choice submitted applications for the main IP loan and the line of credit with our existing lender. Both lenders performed their respective valuations, the first on the property we were buying and the second on our home.

After all was said and (nearly*) done, our unconditional finance approvals came through without a hitch. People get all bent out of shape about finance but I don’t let it phase me—in this case I’d done my homework and knew what to expect. In other words, I wasn’t asking for more than any reasonable person in our situation might need and the numbers were simple and made sense. I was also confident our team would get us through. Might be different next time around though!

* Land settlement is due in the next few weeks. When settlement occurs, the solicitor will meet with the bank and land developer to ensure monies are dispersed appropriately and all of the legals are taken care of.

Land and Builder (etc)

Following an initial phone consultation with Open Wealth and a bit more back and forth, the first thing we needed to do with them was have our name added to a waiting list for a property in the area (the development) they were recommending.

After looking over the property details and the house specifications, we had to sign an “Exclusive Hold Agreement”, which essentially allowed us to deliberate further, and undertake additional due diligence, while the property could not be offered to anyone else. The hold agreement also required payment of a $1,000 refundable deposit. If we chose to back out, the deposit would be refunded in full. This deposit was payable to Open Wealth and is ultimately part of their 2% fee.

With the land contracts submitted, we then had to pay a $2,000 refundable holding deposit to the land developer. This deposit is essentially part of what would be a typical 10% land deposit—there is no further deposit to pay for the land and the balance of the land price and costs are paid at land settlement. The land contracts included the Contract for House and Residential Land (REIQ) and Terms of Contract for House and Residential Land (REIQ), as well as special annexures.

Note we had no opportunity throughout this process to submit an “offer” as such and when I enquired about negotiating on price, I was told the prices are essentially non-negotiable. This is something I want to find out more about if we repeat the process again with Open Wealth.

Next, we had to pay the balance of the Open Wealth “Development Management Agreement Fee” (their fee) within seven days following unconditional approval. This fee is 2% plus GST of the total land and construction price and is tax deductible.

Finally (FINALLY!) we had the 5% builder’s deposit to pay; we were given the option of paying this before settlement so the builder could make a start before we actually owned the land (due to an arrangement between the land developer and the builder negotiated by Open Wealth). We had the option to pay this after settlement.

Note I would have paid all of these costs from our line of credit in order to tax deduct the interest but unfortunately the LOC wasn’t yet available when I paid the $1k and $2k deposits. I may still be able to claim something for these but it gets tricky as I paid both of these initial deposits from our personal transaction account and that gets messy in the eyes of the ATO; will let the accountant sort that one out come tax time! [Update: on advice from our accountant, I “refunded” the $3k to our personal account, in two separate transactions, from our LOC.]

In summary, these were our upfront costs and the timing of relevant milestones:

September

  • Exclusive Hold Agreement signed and returned.
October
  • Open Wealth deposit: $1,000 (of the total Development Management Fee) to Open Wealth. Refundable.
  • Land contracts signed by us and returned.
November
  • Land developer deposit: $2,000 (of the land price) to the land developer. Refundable. Payable once land sale contracts submitted
  • Unconditional finance approval received. 
  • Development Management Agreement Fee: 2% plus GST (minus $1,000 paid initially) of the land and construction costs to Open Wealth. Tax deductible.
  • Construction contracts signed by us and returned.
December
  • Builder’s deposit: 5% of the construction price to the builder. Tax deductible.
[Update: March
  • Land settlement]

Reading and Learning

As all of these events unfolded, I was busily reading everything I could get my hands on. I’ve started a bibliography which I’ll publish soon in case you want to follow what I’ve read. Education is obviously a time consuming (and at times tiresome) activity but I feel it’s important to understand the principles of property investment inside and out—especially as I lack the repeated experiences myself.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,
Michael

Setting the Scene

I’ve previously mentioned property investment and that’s what I’m here writing about (or will be soon once the formalities are out of the way). So before we get started in earnest allow me to explain why we felt the need to invest. As always, I’ll go into specifics in future posts—I promise.

Our pathway through life has been, to date, very much what most people would expect: grow up, go to school (university), get a good job (refer to Robert Kiyoasaki’s excellent Rich Dad Poor Dad book for more on this mantra). You might follow that with work hard, retire, die.

In my case, I opted to start my tertiary education in the arts to lay the groundwork for future specialisation so I studied English Literature and Art History. I followed that with a Masters in Information Technology.

My wife followed a similar path, starting out in veterinary studies before shiftingd over to medicine.

I did alright, academically, in my undergraduate degree and did very well in my Masters degree. The wife did very well throughout. I landed in a pretty good job out of university and my wife entered the public health system to complete her training.

Our incomes grew rapidly as we progressed from junior positions in the first few years of our respective careers and we soon focused on buying a block of land and building a house. We saved enough for a deposit on the land and took on a mortgage worth a lot of money (not quite three quarters of a million dollars at the time—2006—but close enough to make me uncomfortable) for the purchase costs and the build. Interest rates were higher then and bounced around a lot but we were protected by naivety, our double income, and a thrifty nature.

We went to work. We paid our mortgage (which cost over $4,000 a month in the early days). We saved a bit where could, using high-interest savings accounts—and paying tax on the interest of course. We were scared to spend and saved hard to establish a buffer or rainy day account.

At one point, the CIO I was working under suggested to me the best thing we could do with our saving was reduce the interest costs on our mortgage by pushing our spare cash into the included redraw facility. If you’re not familiar with redraw, it works very much like an offset account: any money you put in reduces the principal on which you pay interest. Whereas an offset account is a separate transaction account, a redraw account is basically your mortgage account. The cash you push in can just as easily be pulled back out again. It’s not quite as flexible as an offset account but redraw didn’t attract any fees in our case.

Important note: there are significant downsides to redraw if you ever want to turn the property into an investment property—against which  you would likely want to claim tax deductions. The ATO considers payments into redraw as payments which reduce how much interest you can claim. So watch out for redraw and prefer an offset account instead which doesn’t have the same problem.

From this simple idea was born our financial strategy: manually move cash into the redraw account when it was available, thereby reducing interest costs. This approach would save us hundreds of thousands of dollars and result in the mortgage being paid off early. Oh and there would be no tax to pay (if our cash was instead held in a high-interest savings account or other investment vehicle we would pay tax on the earnings).

Meanwhile, the equity in our home was increasing. It’s now 2014, we’ve owned the block of land since mid-2006 and been in the house since mid-2008. As we worked at our jobs, the property market—and the property cycle—kept working in our favour too, ensuring the value of our house was aligned to the median house price and comparable recent sales in our area.

In round numbers, let’s say we’ve been living in the house for five years; in that time, the equity in the house has increased by over $400k. Of course there’s inflation to contend with and we spent close to $100k on very necessary post-construction activities like pouring a very long driveway (we’re on a rear block), building a deck and pergola, fencing, tiling, painting, carpets, blinds, built in vac, etc, etc.

Equity, locked up in a family home is like almost-free money. That’s simplistic, of course, because to access that “money” really and truly you’d need to sell the house and crystalise the gain which most people probably won’t want to do if they’re living in that house. But—and very importantly—the banks will loan money against that equity using a line of credit or an equity loan. You’ll pay interest just like any other bank loan but you can effectively do whatever you want to with that money such as use it to pay for a deposit on an investment property (or buy stocks or go on a holiday or whatever—but ask an accountant about the idea of mixing the purpose of the loan before you do anything other than attempt to generate money). A line of credit can be established for smaller amounts but can go quite high too—the bank site I’m looking at as I write suggests $750k and up.

At this point, we have a problem. We’ve got a plan to pay off our mortgage in ten years or less (by paying less interest, basically) and we’ve got increasing equity in our home. That’s good problem to have, I suppose! It also sounds like lazy money to me: money—or rather other people’s money (the bank’s)—that could be working for me to make more money (so I don’t have to) but that hasn’t been put to good use.

Following an initial conversation directly with our bank I realised we could be approved for an investment property mortgage and could effect the transaction with no money from our own pocket. Really. Nothing. We couldn’t get a 105% or 110% loan because they aren’t offered by the mainstream lenders post GFC but by combining a line of credit with an investment home loan we could cover all of the purchase costs and we’d avoid paying mortgage lender’s insurance.

Rental income would cover a significant majority of the ongoing costs and tax deductions would take us up near 95%, leaving only a small difference for us to pay. By my (pessimistic) calculations that works out to $4,000 or less a year.

The property will therefore be “negatively geared” but the plan is for it to become neutrally or positively geared in the years to come meaning it makes money (“net cashflow positive”) and costs me nothing in the long-term. All the while the equity in this first property is growing and can be used for other investments.

So we’ve redefined our financial strategy—I plan to dedicate a future post that topic. In short we’ve now outgrown what was a simplistic and great plan (put it all in redraw!) and are now thinking long-term and bigger picture (through retirement and on to death). I’ve done a lot of reading over the last six months and spoken to brokers, accountants, other investors, lenders, and solicitors to understand the moving parts when it comes to property investment. I have a lot more learning to do however!

I’ll write more about risk in the future as well but the way I see it property is in a sweet spot between shares and savings accounts. Understand the risks and they seem rather manageable for the long-term returns you hear about. [Update: see my post Risky Business? for my views in this area.]

A side note: I earned ten thousand dollars one summer as a young man planning bus routes for the school board in my area. Another long story but that money was invested in a handful of tech stocks around 1998/99—just before the tech bubble burst, if you’ll recall! I watched some of the five or six stocks I held soar magnificently in value but was mentored to hold for the long term and I neglected my instinct to sell and cash in the gains. The bubble burst soon enough and my $10k became almost worthless in a short matter of time. In retrospect, I probably bought when prices were already high so the correction left me hanging in the wind. In the next decade that money would have come in terribly handy for immigration to Australia, getting married, studying as an international student, and buying our first home. Of course by that time it was long gone. It’s easy to call stocks a gamble but there are reasons why I have no interest in stocks (to list some of those reasons quickly: market mentality, lack of control or direction over the investment, lack of time and interest to understand company fundamentals, and so on).

Super would be fine and dandy—apart from the fact any contributions are locked away until you reach your preservation age (55 in my case) and the canned investment options are built around securities (and property and cash). Self-managed super would be great, especially when it comes to property investment, but then the ATO won’t allow you to buy a block of land and improve it (build) and building new is what maximises your depreciation benefits.

Other options we considered were to simply save our income. This is simple and surely it’s safe, right? The bank guarantees your savings but it won’t protect your savings from inflation (which is roughly 3% a year on average). Most importantly, your money isn’t working hard enough, even if it is keeping pace with inflation. With interest rates so low, high-interest savings accounts are still quite boring in terms of their returns and term deposits, etc aren’t much better as far as I know.

So we’re starting with property. It costs very little to build an asset base that will grow in value over time and allow us to save tax. Our strategy, if you can’t tell, is very much buy and hold—forever.

Hopefully that gives you some context for the stories and tales that follow. Our situation is unique in that it is our own but in dollars and cents I think you’ll find we’re not all that different from you or your friends and neighbours. There are no secrets and no magic tricks. Yes, there are tricksters and sharks who will attempt to lead you astray and while they may not steal from you, you may not get what you expect in return for payment. There are alternative strategies and approaches you’ll come across, of course. And there is plenty to learn: the financial aspects are fascinating and then of course there’s the tax office and different state laws and functions to consider. As a simple person, however, I don’t believe this stuff is beyond my grasp… but I’ll keep you posted either way!

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,
Michael