Showing posts with label Risk. Show all posts

49 - Cash savings cost you money

Interest earned has a nasty sting in its tail: it's considered taxable income. Save some cash in a savings account (or term deposit or similar) and interest earned will be included in your taxable income and taxed at your marginal tax rate.

Don't forget to take out inflation too (which was not inconsiderable at 1.9% for 2016/17).

Here's the simple workup:

Invest $10k @ 5% p.a to earn $500
Assuming your income is $87-180k, your income will be taxed at roughly $0.37 per $1 earned. As such, the ATO takes $185 of your $500.
The cost of inflation, calculated on the principal of $10k @ 1.9% p.a., is a further $190 (in other words, your $10k is now worth $9,810 in real terms).
Instead of earning $500, you've only earned $125 (or achieved a rate of return of 1.25%)

Current interest rates are already low and a 5% interest rate is probably unrealistic. Most 60-month term deposit rates are earning less than 3%.

If you're saving cash, you'd better have a very generous interest rate or a very low income—or you're probably going backwards. Let’s not get started on the opportunity cost of not putting those savings into a better-performing (and safer) investment.

Given the above example again, if you’re earning 2.5% interest, your actually working at a net negative interest rate of –0.33% at a cost of $32.50. As a bonus exercise for the reader, compound these examples over multiple years.

If you have a mortgage, get an offset account and stash your money in there right now. Either way, get a good accountant who can help you legally maximise your deductions.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

47 – How we saved 1 million dollars tax free

You may not have realised but the mortgage on your family home is one of the most flexible and safest “investment” vehicles available to you.

Let’s start at the beginning, with the basics. Say you take out an owner-occupier, principal and interest home loan from a bank for $750,000; the loan is for thirty years with a variable interest rate of 5.25%.

As an owner-occupier you’ll live in the home (note different factors, such as tax deductibility, are at play with an investment loan). Your interest rate will rise or fall depending on several factors, including the RBA’s official cash rate, regulatory changes—such as those implemented by APRA in recent years, market conditions, and the business outlook of the bank itself (such as exposure to business issues in other industries or countries).

As a principal and interest loan, you’ll start by paying off the interest (mainly) and your regular repayments will likely be about $4,100/month. You’ll pay that amount every month for thirty years. After 360 payments, you’ll have paid off the principal amount of $750k and nearly $750k again in interest.

So in a nutshell, your house will cost you twice as much as the price of the house itself if you take on a mortgage (I’m glossing over deposits and stamp duty, of course). That’s a lot of money!

This is why my #1 tip is to pay off your mortgage as soon as you can. To achieve this, negotiate annually with your bank to secure the best interest rate you can and move banks if you’re not happy; employ an offset account (don’t use redraw) to ensure all of your cash is being used to reduce the principal owing; switch to fortnightly or weekly repayments; throw everything you’ve got at your mortgage until it’s at least well under control if not obliterated—and by this I mean scrimp and save and defer buying the things you want for a few years.

Many banks and financial institutions offer interactive, visual calculators which demonstrate how changes in interest rates and repayment frequency will affect the total cost of your loan. Check out this calculator from CANSTAR, as one example. It was the looming threat of having to pay thousands of dollars every month, illustrated in a calculator like this, and the idea that our house would cost twice as much in interest, that drove me to our strategy of removing our home loan from our lives.

If you’ve got money squirrelled away elsewhere, it’s probably time to liquidate and toss it into you offset account. If you’re using a high interest savings account, the ATO will treat your earned savings as taxable income (which will be taxed at your marginal tax rate). The same goes for capital gains income from other investment vehicles such as stocks. Don’t forget your savings are also being eroded by inflation at a rate of ~3% every year—meaning your cash loses 3% of its value once every year to the point where you position is probably moving backwards.

Ask yourself if your other investments are earning you a return of 5% p.a. or more, after CPI and tax—where the 5% figure is taken from interest rate on your mortgage. You’ll likely find they’re not. Don’t forget to consider your risk exposure with these investments: when the next dotcom crash or GFC arrives, will your investments hold their current value?

By contrast, you live in your home and, while it’s not an income-producing asset, it is a huge (albeit generally low-risk) liability which will undermine your ability to purchase strong assets if not reduced. That said, no matter what happens, your house will provide you with shelter and warmth and privacy even if it drops in value or the worst happens: it’s something you can use.

Suppose you are taming the bear that is your mortgage: you’re chipping away at it using an offset account and making extra repayments. Meanwhile, the value of the security—the land on which your house sits—has likely increased in value. If you need a large amount of cash for that rainy day emergency, it’s immediately accessible to you from your offset account or by redrawing. In other words, your mortgage as a “reverse investment” (if that makes sense!) is not only low-risk but it’s fluid in that it can be rapidly converted into cash.

With the passage of time and increase in value of your property, you may now be able to take out a line of credit, effectively a mini-mortgage secured against the difference between the current value of your property and its original value or what’s been paid down (the equity but this is also called your “lazy money”—set it to work for you!). You could go silly and use this to fund a holiday or buy a fancy car but that would undo your hard work. Instead, use that available money to pay a deposit and costs for your first investment property. Welcome to the world of leverage.

The above is exactly what we did and we effectively paid down our mortgage in full in about eight years (ours was largely a dual-income family on average salaries for the majority of that time). From the line of credit, we’ve been able to extend ourselves into two investment properties, all the while saving somewhere between $500k – $1m in interest (depending on future interest rates), paying no additional tax, and watching the value of what is now our home increase rather than moving backwards, as cash would have.

Enjoy,

Michael

45 - Financial Exercise

There’s very little I can share with you about physical exercise—other than the fact that I avoid it and any “workout” of mine is entirely coincidental… think mowing the lawn and carrying the kids around. I know exercise is good for me but I prefer to flex my financial management and discipline muscles instead.

Of course since we can’t easily practice buying real investments without making costly mistakes, what follows is an overview (from simple to hard(er)) of what I do regularly to keep my mind on the money, so to speak.

Check your accounts regularly

I regularly log in to the web sites for our bank and credit card accounts to review the list of recent transactions. I quickly scan for high dollar value debit transactions: anything more than $100. I ask myself whether I recognise the transaction (i.e. did I buy something?) and check the transaction description and date. I also check for credits like refunds and payments to make sure everything is as I think it should be.

It’s also worthwhile keeping an eye for really small transactions ($1.00) as this may be a fraudster probing the account.

I also check our monthly statements when they arrive—especially for any interest charges.

Review and revise your financial goals

I set our financial goals annually. I list the goals for the year ahead and then short, medium, and long-term objectives. In our case, short-term is defined as 0-2 years, medium-term is 2-10 years, long-term is 10-30 years+. I review our goals every so often as a reminder to keep my train of thought on track.

Have you written down your financial goals? If not, do this now:

Spend five minutes thinking about your future. Brainstorm—think small or large but just think. Think about next year and think about how you’re going to retire and then die.
Write down at least one or two financial goals that will help you to achieve your future reality.
Edit later.

Drafting your financial goals is vitally important to shape and inform everything else you do in life. Your goals and objectives form the foundation of your financial existence and ultimately shape your personal existence.

Start small and build, reviewing what you wrote down and editing periodically to cull things that no longer make sense and add things that do.

Save your receipts and keep a log book of costs

The office supply store sells a basic accordion-style folder for about $5 containing a pocket for every month of the year and a few to spare. I buy a new one each year.

I always ask for a receipt when I purchase something and file it by month. For online transactions, I print to PDF and save the PDF in a similar manner.

At month end, I pull out the receipts for the current month and record, at a minimum, the date, supplier, amount, and any relevant notes. I use an Excel spreadsheet for this purpose and add a new row for each receipt.

On my log I categorise each transaction by type (e.g. grocery, petrol, utility, clothing, children, communications, vehicle, entertainment, etc) and sub-type for each of those types (e.g. utility includes gas, water, and electricity). I also include a Yes/No field to indicate if the expense should be flagged to the accountant to be tax deducted, and note how the payment was made (cash, card, PayPal, etc).

Because I’m a geek and an ex-manager, I have an Excel pivot table sitting over that data, which allows me to dynamically filter this information by time/type/tax deductible/etc in order to consolidate and analyse our expenditure. For example, let’s say I want to know if we’re spending a little bit more or a lot more on gas or electricity… since last year or last season or since we had the kids. The pivot table tells me this. It also gives me a nice overview of how our annual expenditure breaks down into the categories I’ve specified.

Now when you apply for a loan and you’re asked how much your family spends each month, you can amaze and impress by providing an exact dollar figure to two decimal places!

In separate logs, I also track things like income (salary), credit cards, and specific things I want to manage closely throughout the year. For a very macro-level view of our situation, I can now see how much we earn to how much we spend (I express this as a ratio) and how much we’re saving.

Do you know how much you’re spending? If so, how and how precise is your understanding?

Budget

Using the information I have from our receipts helps me to budget more accurately.

with our combined income (earned income—i.e. salaries, government payments, superannuation, investment returns, etc), I divide that number by all the big ticket things that make life expensive.

An annual budget is a good starting point but life tends to work in monthly, fortnightly, or weekly intervals and a budget will likely be more meaningful if you if think short-term. If you’re working electronically, I find it easiest to plan at the week or fortnightly level and then aggregate those figures as monthly or annual figures.

Starting with some of the aggregate numbers from my log and our financial goals and objectives for the year, I can decide where we need to cut costs and where we want to spend (or save) more. If you’re working with a calendar, you can then plot how to achieve that by ramping up or down on specific costs over time (but I feed this information back to our financial goals and objectives).

Some areas of a budget will be easy. If you’re saving for a home deposit or something else like a trip, put a dollar figure against that item and adjust later if you need to. For things like savings and paying off debt, I’m aggressive and stretch ourselves to prioritise these items.

Some areas seemingly won’t provide much wiggle room. We all need food, shelter, clothing, petrol, and things like utilities, phone, and maybe internet. I’ll occasionally look at those areas in detail to see you if I can find a better deal on our energy or mobile phone plans, for example.

The online ASIC Budget Planner at https://www.moneysmart.gov.au/tools-and-resources/calculators-and-apps/budget-planner is a great place to start if you’ve never laid out a budget for yourself.

Once you have a budget in place, your receipt log allows you to determine how you’re tracking to budget and where any variances sit.

Research

I regularly review the official interest rate and the interest rates applicable to our various loans. The cash rate is pretty boring these days (for now) but the interest rates at the lender end are constantly jittering around and there’s always the question of whether it’s time to refinance for a better deal.

realestate.com.au allows you to subscribe to a feed of new real estate listings for a specific criteria and I receive regular updates from that channel for the suburb where our family home is located and the Brisbane suburb where IP#1 sits. I don’t use this information other than to keep tabs on the market and, as buy and hold investors, we have no intentions of selling. I am interested, however, in house prices both from an equity point of view and to understand our return on investment position. Of course the advertised price for a property rarely tracks it’s sale price.

You can also do the same thing with the rental market and properties sold.

The more I’ve learnt about property investing, the more interested I’ve become in the things that impact it and to that end I at least try to read about some of these demographic and economic indicators (for example, the free Monthly Housing and Economic Chart Packs produced by CoreLogic). I supplement some of this summary-level information with detail from the ABS, such as population growth and and unemployment.

Enjoy,

Michael

44 - Re-letting IP#1

Our Brisbane tenants vacated the property in early September at the conclusion of their lease. No clear motivation for their departure was supplied to us by the property manager, apart from the girlfriend being pregnant. I wonder if the $5/month rent increase we applied when the lease was renewed/reworked was partly to blame but I suspect the tenancy simply ran its course. The local Griffin rental market is currently oversupplied and rents have fallen slightly.

The outgoing tenants willingly tidied up and addressed a handful of issues that required attention (a chipped kitchen tile, dog faeces in the back garden, some cleaning residue on the walls). Having the house empty was also a good opportunity for the builder to rectify a roofing defect and related ceiling damage from a recent water leak.

The property was not producing income during this vacancy period but my (admittedly pessimistic) budgeting plans anticipate a four-week annual vacancy period.

While home inspections were not widely attended before the last tenants vacated, interest picked up gradually from September. The property manager tells me the local rental market is oversupplied with new developments recently coming online and we eventually dropped the weekly rent from $415 initially to $410 and then to $405 as the weeks went by. Every $5 decrease translates into an additional loss for the investment of $260 per annum—less than I would have thought.

The “competition” (i.e. rentals exactly like or very similar to ours) were including a free week of rent and/or other incentives like six months of free gardening services. Our PM also suggested we could upgrade the realestate.com.au advertisement to feature/highlight our property but the rent decrease seemed the obvious way to go as it impacts the tenant’s bottom line.

We had a diverse range of applications through while the property was vacant:

An ideal first application came from a mum and dad couple with two older, pre-teen boys and no pets. Dad was working away but mum was not employed and is, presumably, a homemaker. Unfortunately the neighbour’s aggressive dog growling through the fence scared them off (a friend initially inspected the property on their behalf as they were all living North); one of the sons was reported as having a disability and being afraid of dogs.
We then received a second application from a mother with an older daughter, who herself has a 2yo and a newborn baby. They have a large breed dog, only 12 months old. It wasn’t clear whether mum was effectively planning to serve as guarantor for her daughter but they could service the rent payments between them. Kids and dogs don’t make for ideal tenants in my mind but that’s exactly the market we’re targeting with this style of property (4x2) in this location (outer-ring suburb). The pair were ready to go immediately on a six or twelve-month lease but, between my prompt reply to the real estate agent and their following up with the applicants, the applicants had accepted another property.
On the back of the second application falling through, we received a third application from a very young couple (late teens/early twenties) with no rental history and very little rental affordability (<30%). Although without kids, they too have an active dog. As our only option, we discussed the risks with the property manager who thought the affordability risks were high. Meanwhile, my wife and I were both thinking back to when we were the same age, with very little income, a cat (and eventually a dog); we stayed in our first rental for four years, paid the rent on time every week, kept the property clean, and caused no damage. The PM discussed having a parent join the application as a guarantor but this couple also found an alternative rental before anything further happened.

Between applications and twice-weekly home opens, the property manager was working to see what could be done about the dog next door. The ranger was called and inspected the situation but decided the neighbour’s property is adequately fenced and the dog could not be labelled ‘menacing’. The ranger did speak with the owners and it was agreed a barrier could be placed against the fence to prevent the dog from getting as close to the boundary. Our PM also spoke to the neighbour’s PM about the situation and was told the dog would be brought inside during home opens (and is friendly once it gets to know someone).

We finally received a fourth application for a couple with two kids under five and two dogs—an older large breed dog and a younger small dog. They were requesting a 12-month lease commencing within the coming days. We approved their application and an executed lease document soon came back. At last!

The property was physically vacant for six weeks—and someone likely kicked a hole in the letterbox during that time, just for good measure—but the new tenants are hopefully in and happy as of last Friday.

Given the length of time the property was vacant, I consulted my risk matrix for some hints as to what to do next—should the vacancy period continue. My mitigation and contingency strategies were minimal (‘review property manager’ and ‘review financial controls’) but, following this experience, I added ‘review market supply’, ‘offer incentives’ and ‘promote advertisement’. I also increased the Probability rating from Remote to Occasional. Fortunately, we’re not cash flow investors and have sufficient cash buffers to weather an extended vacancy.

Although I naively expected our first tenants to stay on for another year at least, I likely need to adjust my expectations to assume a tenant will stay somewhere between 6-12 months. A 12-month lease gives us some surety but also locks us in to a rental amount and the tenant, who may or may not be problematic.

In terms of lessons learnt, I created a Landlord’s Vacating Tenants Checklist. This checklist differs from the standard checklist which might be supplied to the outgoing tenant or used by the property manager during the exit inspection in that it lists the things I need to check and do to a) ensure the tenants have done the right thing and b) ensure the property manager has done the right thing. More about the checklist and b) soon.

Enjoy,

Michael

42 - Tenant Churn

The property management firm (Century 21) managing our Brisbane property contacted us recently seeking our instructions regarding the renewal of the current 6-month lease, which runs out in the next few months.

It was noted the current rent is at the high end for the area, with a nearby estate also coming online—increasing rental supply. The agent reminded me the last (and first inspection since this lease began) was acceptable, and mentioned monies owed by the tenant are generally within tolerances.

The agent additionally mentioned a contractor reported two dogs at the property, one being a small puppy. Although I’d not formally rejected the tenant’s pet request, I hadn’t approved it either.

Despite being annoyed about the dogs—mainly the dishonesty of the matter, I proposed another six month lease at the same rate and approved the pet request as there seemed to be no option not to. I asked that our dissatisfaction about the dogs be conveyed to the tenants and requested the tenant raise any other issues now so they might be cleared up. It’s frustrating when the adults you lease a property to behave like three year-olds but if they’re paying the rent, that’s a good thing.

After all of that, the property manager came back with a response from the tenant and they won’t be renewing the lease. We haven’t been given a reason why but the agent was going to enquire.

Open Corp have noted a preference to lease to families due to the stability they offer as tenants (kids in school, general stability, other life pressures which preclude moving house, etc) but we approved the original trio of adult tenants as they had no kids, no pets, and were the first and only application we received. We also pretty much had to approve the application to secure the Open Corp 12-month rental guarantee at the original rent we desired.

Having the lease turn over means the property will need to be advertised and we’ll need to pay a new letting fee to the property manager. Of course there may also be a vacancy period. I’ve budgeted for both the costs of an annual letting fee and four week vacancy period. Although very much not preferable, I’m confident we have an adequate financial buffer to cover any gaps. Nonetheless, I also include long-term vacancy as a risk on my property investment risk register.

Admittedly, from the point we transitioned this property from acquisition and commissioning to tenancy, my expectations around the time a tenant will remain in place were likely too high. My only frame of reference for this was as tenants ourselves: we spent four years in the Adelaide house and a couple of years in a Perth rental. I hoped to get two years out of the original Brisbane lease but will adjust downwards future expectations on the back of this experience. Although I dislike the idea of churning tenants and the wear and tear a house takes in the process, as long as we have tenants in place to contribute rent towards the holding costs, I suppose I can’t care too much… everything else can be repaired! I’d be curious to know the average tenancy duration across different types of rentals in different areas…

It’s easy to trick yourself into believing being a landlord should be a set and forget exercise once the initial setup is complete. The books, magazines, and online resources (such as this blog) tend to focus on matters such as types of investment, types of property, location principles, ownership structures, financing, tax structures, and so on; the day-to-day landlording is typically glossed over by promoting the use of a property manager or improving the property to “manufacture wealth.”

The last twelve months have offered me an enormous experience as a newly-minted landlord but this role still feels very foreign to us and the mandatory, ad hoc decision making requirement when you least have the headspace to spare can honestly be a hassle. I’ll endeavour to write more about this aspect in future posts.

The property will be advertised about six weeks out from the end of the lease; it will be interesting to gauge the market and find out who we get next as tenants. I’ve intentionally remained very anonymous with these tenants but am rethinking our approach the next time around to experiment with a more personal approach (while keeping the PM in their role).

Enjoy,

Michael

38 - Surprise! Unexpected Changes

I find the vast majority of mainstream real estate reporting in the media is either all or nothing: the market is going gangbusters or it’s the next worst thing since the Great Depression and all hope is lost (I’ve given up paying any attention to the news…). There’s no middle ground. Similarly, the property spruikers only share the positives and conveniently overlook the details when they do cite a one-off example of something gone wrong.

Although many of the posts on this blog have been relatively upbeat—in line with our experience to date, I strongly believe in reality, facts, and the accurate, fair reporting of our experience. On that note, today’s post is a recounting of what is likely to be the largest single “upset” (not to dramatize) so far along our property investing journey.

Earlier this month we had three tenants in the Brisbane property and over six months remaining of a 12-month lease; then, suddenly, we had one tenant plus an “unknown” (or rather, the girlfriend of the remaining original tenant) and a pet request for a middle-aged, large-breed dog. On Friday morning last week, a water leak in the metre box was also reported.

How quickly things change from a seemingly stable position to near chaos. Fortunately, the exemplary property management team at West Property is handling all of this for us but I won’t deny I’ve found it remarkable that tenants can simply walk away from a contractual agreement they’re legally obliged to uphold. If nothing else, this doesn’t make for a good lease reference for them and they may end up have to cover re-letting fees for us.

I’m not sure why two of the three roommates have left but I believe they were together as a couple and I assume they either now aren’t or have decided they needed more privacy. I suspected there may be some instability when we took on the trio (we very much expected to end up with a family—mum, dad, two kids, and a dog) but they were the first application after a few weeks of home opens and they were happy to pay the advertised weekly rent. I thought one of them might leave eventually but wasn’t expecting any changes in the first year. In my mind, you sign a lease for twelve months, go to the hassle of moving, and then you stay put for a few years—call me simple and old fashioned.

We were notified by the property manager the pair have now moved out and requested to be removed from the lease. We had the option of saying no to this request and they would be obliged to continue paying their share of the rent—regardless of whether they’re actually living there. Practically, that option may be difficult to enforce.

In their place, the girlfriend of the remaining tenant had moved in, I’m told, but she had neither applied nor was she approved by us to live at the property. The wording in the lease document is quite specific to this point and clearly notes no one else can live in the house without prior agreement by the landlord.

If this new couple are keen to stay on, can afford the rent, and seem to be acceptable, then we’re all for that. Ideally that means no break in rental income. Plus there’s less wear and tear on the house for them to move out and be replaced with new tenants. But who is this mystery woman? Does she have an income? Does she have any prior rental referrals (or a criminal history)? Does she smoke? If she’s not paying her way, can her partner afford the full rent on his income after paying only a third of the rent to date?

Technically, there are more questions to be answered if the girlfriend checks out. Do we amend the lease to include her or have the tenants sign a new, 12-month lease? Do we increase the rent now as part of the new lease or after six months via some kind of special conditions clause (which may be tricky to do in Queensland—I’m not sure)? If the couple opt for a 50/50 split, the original tenant will need to increase his bond contribution from 1/3rd to 50%—or 100% if he’s covering the lot.

The worst-case scenarios I can imagine are having the remaining tenant vacate (for whatever reason), leaving us with an empty house to re-let and the resulting loss of income, or—if he stays—having a gap in the rent payments from the departing couple while all of this is sorted out. If all else fails, we are still covered by the Open Corp rental guarantee but that does mean having to accept any tenants they pre-screen and put forward to us (which could be good or not so good). Without checking the finer points of our insurance policy, we may also be covered for loss of rent if the rental guarantee were not in place.

Here’s another good fact sheet if you’re interested: http://tenantsqld.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/You-Want-to-Leave-Nov-09-SD_NEW.pdf

On the dog front, I simply wasn’t mentally prepared to deal with this request so early into the original lease and the property manager has recommended we say no for now (which was a relief). Before today’s revelation, we had considered allowing the pet if the (original) tenants were willing to sign a new 12-month lease effective immediately—using this request as a trigger event to keep the tenants on for a longer period. That’s less of an issue now.

We also hadn’t yet decided whether there would have been a corresponding rent increase; we can’t increase the rent mid-lease in Queensland so even a token increase would likely be the way to go to a) ensure we achieve an increase within the 12-month period, b) condition the tenant that the rent will always increase at renewal time, and c) cover any issues related to the dog (i.e. damage) as we can’t charge a pet bond in Queensland.

Meanwhile, the water leak is still being investigated by the water company. At least it’s outside and I’m told it’s likely on the water company’s side or will otherwise fall to the builder to rectify.

A few weeks on, and after consulting with Open Corp and receiving a tenancy application from the girlfriend, we offered the couple a six-month lease to see how it works out. We also increased the rent by $5/week. The lease was accepted and signed and we shouldn’t have missed any rental payments (the outgoing tenants would have been required to continue paying their share of the original lease until it was terminated). It will be interesting to see if the relationship lasts and what bearing a breakup has on the remaining tenant’s affordability; it’s easy to say a married couple with kids would have been a more stable tenant option but who knows—with the frequency of divorce I’m not convinced marriage equates to tenant longevity.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

37 – A Few Reasons for Investing in Property

It’s been a hard couple of weeks here. With a bank pre-approval valid for only three months before the reams of documentation would need to be supplied anew, it was go-time for getting agreement from Gemma and setting the wheels in motion with Open Corp for the second investment property purchase. I thought Gemma remembered and understood the reasons for buying the first property—and how that logic extends to a second. As my external voice of reason, however, she was reluctant.

A refresher was in order. I spent a few evenings nagging Gemma to think it over. I drew a few simplistic diagrams on the kid’s chalkboard to reinforce the key points. I asked her to re-read the very readable Property Investing Mini Guide from Open Corp (which I’d helpfully underlined and annotated—because that’s how I roll).

Gemma wasn’t sure about the risks but couldn’t explain to me the basis for her reservations—her default financial strategy is to ‘put it in the bank’ and ignore the negative impact of inflation. Her preference was to take a wait and see approach with the first property, which isn’t a good move if house prices continue to climb and become less affordable. How long do we wait? This first year also won’t tell us much: since the first property is in her name and she’s on maternity leave, we won’t see many tax benefits this financial year.

I argued the experience of the first build went well and the process of buying and tenanting was an exceptionally solid result with Open Corp. We wouldn’t have a long-term view of success or failure for the better part of ten years or more (one property cycle) but doing nothing with our available equity would leave us behind as inflation eats away at out savings at a rate of ~3% a year.

What should be an emotionless decision was quickly becoming a very heated emotional debate between us.

In addition to my points above, I banged on about historical growth rates, leverage, and risk.

Historical Capital Growth

Looking back in time we see Australian house prices growing continuously since the 1970’s (and well beyond). Whatever happened (or started happening) back then—be it government forces, population and other demographic shifts, war, tax incentives, rising incomes, or other market forces—has tended to continue. That’s over forty years of generally positive data.

The past is not a guaranteed predictor of the future but it does provide some guidance. Of course you’ll also find arguments against property investment using similar data—see this article which proposes we’re in a housing price bubble.

Leverage

Buying a property seems expensive but it’s not. We pay the up-front transaction costs (indirectly through a line of credit) and borrow 100% of the cost of the property through a combination of the line of credit and a primary loan. In other words, we put in about $70k to invest $380k. That’s a powerful thing: by my very simple math, if we put in a dollar, the banks put in $5 and the interest costs are largely covered by the rental income, tax deductions, and depreciation. Yes, both the LOC loan and the primary loan are subject to interest rate increases and other legislative changes (e.g. negative gearing) and it’s always wise to take these variables into consideration when doing your sums.

Risk

I’ve written about risk before but the options are simple.

1. Do nothing and inflation calls the shots. Even in a term deposit or a high interest savings account, your position will probably decrease or remain flat (i.e. unproductive). Real estate can be considered as a hedge against inflation given the relationship between GDP growth and demand.

2. Invest in the share market and Ben Graham’s insane Mr. Market calls the shots—in other words, the share markets are unpredictable and crazy; unless you’re investing in the company itself and understand the industry and the internals of the company, you’re betting against the house—so to speak. Plus, you don’t have any control over how your investment is put to work.

3. Invest in real-estate. Land has a long-term history of appreciating in value and putting a house on it will ensure the costs involved in holding the land are manageable. In time, the rental income may cover those costs and provide an income stream. If everything else turns to pot, at least you can live in a house and capital increases are potentially accessible via equity loan.

These aren’t the only arguments to consider but they’re a good starting point and encompass many of the finer details. Here a few more points to consider:

Real-estate investment is relatively easy to understand
You have more control over your investment than you would as a stock investor
You can create value (e.g. by renovating)
As a long-term investment the impact of any initial mistakes are likely to be lessened over time
There’s less volatility in the real estate market than there is with the stock market
Bricks and mortar have a high tangible value (compare to investment in a start-up that may have a product idea but no product and no revenue stream)
Rental income provides a stable income
Housing will always be in demand as our population increases
You have many options for managing your investment (subdividing, doing your own maintenance work, using a property manager or doing it yourself)
Portfolio diversification
And so on

In the end, Gemma came around and the IP#2 wheels are turning. We signed the hold agreement with Open Corp, put down the $1k hold deposit and $2k land deposit when returning the land contracts.

Gemma did caveat her approval of this build: this second property would be our last for a little while. I’m fine with that as this purchase will come close to exhausting the small line of credit we took out for the first build, secured against our PPOR, and the banks may not be too willing to extend us a third loan given the fact I’ll be back on stay-at-home dad duties in the next few months. The general tightening of the financial lending market over the last few years doesn’t help much either on this front (I’m not quite sure how the 26 year-olds in the magazines amass 10 properties in such a short timeframe!).

On request, Open Corp came back to us with a 400sqm property in Victoria, an hour’s drive south of Melbourne. I’ll discuss the specifics—and recount the process to acquire and build, as I did with the first IP, in future posts.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

27 - Appointing a Property Manager

The first step in transitioning our newly-built Queensland investment property to an income-generating asset—rather than a financial liability—is to find a rent-paying tenant. But let’s not jump ahead because first it’s time to find a good property manager.

As we reside in Western Australia, managing an interstate investment property ourselves would be challenging but not impossible.

Travel costs to inspect an investment property are tax deductible once the property is income generating but not before. Once a property is tenanted, the ATO allows its owners to deduct travel costs twice per year but be careful because if you and your spouse are joint owners and travel together that’s your two trips (and if you’re thinking about making the trip into a holiday opportunity, think again: you may not be able to deduct all—or any—of your costs). It’s also worthwhile attaching a dollar amount to your time and asking yourself if that time can be spent more productively.

Then there’s Queensland law, in our case, which entitles a property owner to only four inspections per year. That number includes regular, scheduled inspections by the property manager.

To my mind, hiring a licensed property manager to manage an investment property offers another layer of risk management—an insurance of sorts—and is yet another cost of “doing business” as a property investor. We could play the role ourselves but it doesn’t seem to be a good idea apart from the cost savings, which are tax deductible anyway. Speaking of insurance, some insurance companies offering landlord insurance require the insured property be managed by a professional property manager.

In theory, even an average property manager will know the area (and rent benchmarks for that area) and may have a database of possible applicants ready to go. The property manager will advertise the property, schedule and host open for inspections, screen applicants, conduct rent inspections, and manage maintenance. We also have the option of having the property manager arrange payment of some charges, such as rates, the water connection, cleaning, landlord insurance, etc from rents collected. Of course a property manager also deals with rent collection and bond monies and can represent you at tribunal (for an additional fee) if necessary.

Importantly, a property manager offers a layer of separation between you and your tenants to avoid getting too personal and keep things business-like.

Expect to pay between 7 and 10 percent for a property manager. In our case that breaks down as commission of 5.5% of one week’s rent (including GST) plus a 2.2% management fee.

I’ve heard it suggested finding a good property manager is imperative but perhaps not the easiest thing to do. There are countless property managers for hire out there and a much smaller selection of really good ones.

Open Wealth recommended us to West Property Group (Century 21) and I spoke with Kerry West, the proprietor, who was extremely helpful and patient as we talked about everything from insurance to rent expectations to annual rent increases to pet bonds and so on. Kerry is a property investor herself and having someone representing you who understands what you’re trying to achieve is a big plus in my view.

Notably, Open Wealth include a rental guarantee with their properties, the terms of which mandate the property is to be managed through the agent they nominate.

Our success is linked with that of Open Wealth, in a way, so it’s obviously good for Open Wealth to have their client’s properties managed by good managers, with the added bonus that we receive a slightly discounted management rate. At the end of the day, this property is a turn-key investment and I’m happy to accept Open Wealth’s advice as we move from acquisition and construction to “commissioning”.

There were a few minor differences between property management norms in WA and Queensland that surprised us.

We’ve previously rented in Perth and, as tenants, had to pay the letting fee ourselves; in Queensland, the landlord pays the letting fee (of 110% of one week’s rent—inc GST).

Apparently the area attracts many families with pets. In WA, as pet owning tenants, we paid a pet bond. In Queensland it’s not legal to charge a pet bond. I’ll be writing more about pets in an upcoming post.

Given the rental guarantee, the geographic distance between Perth and Brisbane, and our lack of experience as landlords, appointing a professional property manager is the right thing do in our case, at least for now. Hopefully they earn their keep and attract a quality tenant at a good weekly rent!

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

13 – Life Insurance

As part of a review of all matters financial I initiated in the middle of 2014, one of the items I added to my list of things to mull over was life insurance. The matter surfaced for me when I realised I no longer had any insurance cover through my superannuation fund by virtue of not working (i.e. being a stay-at-home parent) and not contributing regularly to my super account.

I’m not planning to die or be critically injured any time soon but I remember when we took on the mortgage for our PPOR in 2006: the commitment felt almost too large handle. I used to commute into the city regularly by bicycle but, having recently moved to Perth from Adelaide—with a related increase in minor accidents, and as one of two income earners critical to our ability to repay the mortgage, I felt it was time to stop riding. With a few years of wisdom on my side, I don’t feel the same way this time around with the investment property but, conversely, I now have kids and want more than ever to protect my family from the risk of loosing an income/resource.

From personal experience again, my father died at the age of 56 and my grandfather at 65 so I joke that I’ll likely expire at 45. Specifically, my father had a life insurance policy worth $500k when he died and had only recently opted not to increase that policy to $1m. The $500k has served my mom well over the years as she retired and downsized the family home but she also weathered the 2001 tech bubble and then the GFC with most of that money in the stock market. With the payout she’s been comfortable; without it, I don’t know that her retirement years would have been as amenable as she was expecting had my dad lived to retire with her.

When we were working, my wife and I both had automatic life and salary continuance insurance (SCI) (also called income protection) through our super funds. We didn’t pay directly for these policies but they were funded through the fees we pay to each fund (a percentage of our super balances). Notably, the amounts insured were very small—a couple of hundred thousand each for life and SCI.

We had the option, of course, to increase the benefit amounts and do everything through super but I soon came to learn there is a better way—an approach that not only pays for some of the premiums from our otherwise inaccessible (preserved) super balances (we’re not running SMSFs) but also offers tax benefits.

By way of background, I’d scheduled a complimentary meeting with a financial advisor through our accountants at WSC Group (through Jigsaw Financial Planning—again no affiliation here). I took with me our written financial goals and described to Matthew Laird (the advisor) what we’re doing with real estate, where we are with super, and that I’m not looking at stocks or mutual funds. It soon became apparent we didn’t need much in terms of paid financial advice… yet. We did, however, talk about insurance and Matt promised to get some numbers together for us. Importantly, he highlighted the concept of a partial rollover from our super funds to pay some of the premium costs, reducing our out-of-pocket expenses and thereby removing what had been the single biggest blocker, to my mind, to insuring ourselves adequately: cost.

The first thing Matt’s team did was prepare a Personal Protection Plan document for us which summarised our current position in terms of income, assets, expenses, liabilities, goals, and existing insurance. This offered a framework for understanding our insurance shortfall and potential requirements into which the planner injects their recommendations for level of cover and ownership structure. There was no charge for this.

It’s worth quickly describing the different types of insurance because I found this enormously confusing at first. I like to categorise insurance into two simple groups: living benefit, which you receive if you’re not dead, and death benefit, which your estate or nominated beneficiary receives when you die.

Living Benefit

Total or Permanent Disability (TPD). A lump sum payout when you’re declared totally and permanently disabled—and can’t work. These policies might exclude heart attack, stroke, cancer and others. A very important distinction to be aware of between TPD policies is that of “Any Occupation” versus “Own Occupation”: with an Own Occupation policy, you’ll receive a payout if you can’t work in your own profession; with an Any Occupation you’ll only receive a payout if you can’t work in any occupation (as Matt says, “as long as you can lick stamps…”). The premium is not tax deductible and the payout is typically not taxed.
Trauma (also called Critical Illness or Living). A lump sum payout that covers heart attack, stroke, cancer, and other specific conditions. The sum insured is typically lower and this cover overlaps somewhat with income protection. The premium is not tax deductible and the payout is typically not taxed. For us, I felt this was very much an optional insurance given our SCI cover (see below) and we didn’t buy any trauma.
Salary Continuance (SCI) (also called Income Protection). Pays ~75% of your income on an on-going basis, after a waiting period, to the age of 65 if you can’t work. SCI covers heart attack, stroke, cancer, etc. The premium is tax deductible and can be paid through super but I’m told it’s best to pay this one yourself for maximum tax benefits. The benefit is classed as taxable income. With the wife’s insurer, the maximum monthly benefit they’ll underwrite is based on 75% of her highest income year in the last three years.

Death Benefit

Term Life. A lump sum payout at death or when you are declared terminally ill (i.e. before you die but with less than 12 months to live). You’ll likely purchase “term” life insurance, in which your premiums cover you for death up to a certain age. You might also be able to purchase permanent life insurance, although I’m not sure this is available in Australia. The premium is not tax deductible and the payout is typically not taxed (but it may be if paid via a super fund or if paid to someone who isn’t a financial dependent—i.e. not your spouse or children).

Note that life insurance tends to get more expensive the older you get—I suppose because you’re more likely, statistically, to receive a payout. I was specifically told by Matt insurance gets a lot more expensive past the age of 47.

The other problem you might face the older you are relates to your medical history. In my (young) case, I broke my back in a snowboarding accident at the age of 21. So my insurance policy includes a blanket exclusion on spinal cover—with no reduction in premium, of course. Basically if my back suddenly gives way tomorrow I’m not covered but if I’m in a car accident and break my back I would be covered. Of course, some insurers may offer you a policy with increased premiums to cover the additional risk. My suggestion therefore is to get yourself insured as soon as you can, as a young person, so you at least have something in place even if health problems do present as you get older which might preclude you from becoming insured.

In the same vein, you’ll also want to be careful what you tell your GP—and what they record in your patient file (the insurer will request your patient file from your GP as part of the assessment process). One thing in particular to be mindful of is mental health—depression, anxiety, etc. If you’re having a bad week at work and mention that when you visit your GP for an unrelated reason—and let’s say your GP recommends you see a counsellor, the insurer may take that into consideration when assessing your application.

With some insurance products like SCI you can insure at indemnity value or agreed value. Indemnity value means the benefit is paid as a percentage of your earnings (i.e. 75%) whereas agreed value means your benefit is whatever fixed amount the insurer has agreed to cover.

Your premiums will also increase annually (these are called “stepped” premiums)—beyond the rate of inflation. You may have the option to pay a higher, “levelled” premium that remains constant throughout the course of your policy. If you can afford to, a levelled premium seems like the way to go to me—assuming premiums will increase beyond the levelled premium and you’ll save money. That said, part of me thinks “the house always wins”.

Our risk of death increase as we age but we conversely approach the end of our careers and our income generating potential. In other words, we should theoretically have a lessened need for insurance as we get older. My aim therefore is to wind back insurance over the next twenty years, with the assumption that we’ll be further progressed in our financial lives and less dependent on income or a large payout to set us in good stead. I’ve therefore opted for stepped premiums.

With other products you can purchase a lower-cost “rider” policy. For example, if you have a trauma rider to your life policy and claim against the trauma policy, your life policy benefit will be reduced by the amount you claim for trauma.

With the concepts out of the way, we started by defining our insurance goals, i.e. what costs would need to be paid for if one or both of us could no longer work. With my wife as the only income earner, we would firstly want to reduce debt and replace her income. With me providing child care, we would also want to cover the cost of child care if I couldn’t provide that function. Pretty simple. Anything else is a bonus—i.e. paying down property debt. In short, we calculated benefits from income, factoring in living expenses and debt. As with most things we do, we insured for modest amounts. Since income protection would be paid at 75%, I opted to go for the maximum amount we could purchase however.

From there, we were able to structure the insurance so the premiums are partly held through a superannuation account. This is accomplished through a partial rollover from our own super funds to the insurer’s zero-balance fund for the amount of the annual premium. In other words, that percentage of the premium for the policy held in the super fund is paid with super dollars that I otherwise cannot touch until I reach preservation age or retire. Yes, that money is no longer earning money for me in my super account but at least I’m not having to pay out of pocket for something as mundane as insurance (and in all honesty I consider the balance of my super as dead money… I’ll look at an SMSF one day).

In my particular case since I’m not working, I wasn’t eligible for an Own Occupation policy or SCI and all of my premiums were covered by the partial rollover. My policy covers me for life and TPD.

In the wife’s case—interestingly—the advisor recommended a different insurer and she’s covered for life, TPD, and SCI. Premiums are again paid through a combination of a partial rollover and a personal contribution. Interestingly, dear wife is with an untaxed super fund so there’s the little catch that rolling over from an untaxed fund to a taxed fund will likely result in tax being payable on the rolled over amount. This is still being resolved but it sounds like a tweak to the ownership structure will sort it out.

Finally, I should mention buying this insurance didn’t cost us anything in broker fees. The broker received a commission from the insurer which is detailed to us. I didn’t think insurance was sold this way so that was a nice cost savings and, since I know nothing about these types of insurance companies, saved me a lot of research. Yes, brokers are selling products that make them a commission which may vary from product to product but WSC Group (through their subsidiary Jigsaw Financial Planning) seemed very professional and above board in their dealings with us.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

9 - Performance Measurement

My wife is my yardstick for measuring reality. I’m admittedly a bit of a dreamer at times (with the ability to get mired in the details, mind!) but my Dr. wife, being smarter than me, is always ready to offer the checks and balances I occasionally require to cool me off when I get carried away.

Part of that is because she hasn’t learned what I’ve learned so she asks a lot of tough questions which forces me to think hard about the answers. She’s also far more conservative than I am and could probably be labelled a reluctant partner in all of this—her preferred approach to investment is to save cash in the bank.

Related to all of this, Cam McLellan over at Open Wealth, with who we’re building our first investment property, did an early podcast on the subject of what he calls “Dream Crushers”. A Dream Crusher tells you what they think (i.e. which is usually a negative, subjective view about what you’re thinking about doing) without having the experience or objective education on the particular subject to support their comments. This commentary gets you down and ultimately prevents you from taking action. The wife is effectively my lead Dream Crusher—although she usually comes around, either because I babble at her so much she wants to shut me up or because what I’m saying makes sense to her and she comes to understand my intention.

Which leads me into the subject of today’s post.

The investment strategy I had yet to—until yesterday—articulate to my beloved wife was to complete construction of IP #1 by mid-year (ish) and look at identifying and securing finance for IP #2 (and possibly IP #3) through the end of Q3 and the start of Q4 2015. This would tie in well with the fact I’d be back at work full time by that point, which the banks would hopefully look at favourably in terms of debt serviceability.

Then my wife hit me with her strategy: evaluate the performance of IP #1 before rushing forward. To me that was the sound of the cord being pulled and the lights going out. Fizzle. Zap. “No more property investing for you, dear hubby!”

We didn’t speak more on the matter initially but her comments certainly got me thinking: what is the detailed set of criteria we might use to define performance?

I’ve honestly been a little bit stumped about how to measure performance for a while now.

The easy one, of course, is a doubling in value (capital increase of 100%) every 7-11 years for good metro properties. The market will generally do this for you unless you’re adding value somehow (i.e. through renovations or infrastructure projects coming online).

Gross—or better yet—net rental yield is a good starting point as it’s a metric that’s easy to calculate and track.

Perhaps more important is the transition from negative gearing to neutral or positive gearing within a timeframe you can afford. Let’s say 1 to 5 or 7 years. This might happen in a number of different ways. Rents increase. Debt might be reduced or retired (but I wouldn’t take this approach) and interest rates might move—down like we’re seeing these days. You earned income may increase as you progress in your career, allowing for more effective tax deductions.

The conclusion that I’ve come to is performance must be measured over specified time intervals: 1 year (or less initially); 3 years; 5 years; 10 years; 15 years; 20 years. My strategy is to hold for the very long term and hence I believe performance should therefore be measured over the long term too. Hopefully in that time our property would have become positively geared and seen reliable capital growth.

Simply looking at results year on year doesn’t work for me. A property might be sitting pretty one year but take a step backwards the next before recovering again in year three, for example. The contextual economics need to be factored in to your assessment at the very least and this will happen automatically by measuring performance over a multi-year period.

More importantly, deciding to invest or not invest in a second property, which will likely be in a different suburb if not a different market (i.e. a different capital city), based on the performance of the first property isn’t an equitable comparison.

There are also other factors that I’ll say are beyond your control, for lack of a better expression. Let’s say you buy a negatively geared property in the years before you retire. Your income is hopefully at the highest level it ever has been and so your tax deductions go further and, were you to keep working, that negatively geared property might be able to generate a positive cash flow for you in a few years.

And then you retire, hopefully with structures in place that will minimise your tax burden. Realistically your income will likely decrease in retirement. But what about those deductions?! That negatively geared property might remain that way for longer than you anticipate if you’re not able to pay down debt. At worst, it might eat into your retirement income and put a hold on your big retirement plans. Moreover that property may have seen only insignificant capital growth in the short term, making any sale not worthwhile despite the potential CGT savings.

If you’re younger, as I am, what if you’re working full-time one year but not earning at all the next? This is my reality as a stay-at-home dad. Bring forward tax deductions, yes, but that muddies the waters somewhat across the financial year boundaries.

Tenant churn might be a problem. That is, you might struggle to retain tenants, leading to more vacancy periods than another investor might have with an elderly couple who’ve been in the rental for a decade—doing their own light maintenance no less! (I read an investor profile just like this one in API). If you’ve got a strong property manager now, what happens if he or she moves on and you’re left with an average manager?

What about bad tenants? Insurance claims? Construction defects if you’re building new?

Interest rates may (will) increase, reducing positive cash flow.

Special circumstances may also intervene. Let’s say you lose a tenant for a length of time greater than you planned for because a major industry pulls out of the local market and rental demand evaporates. Or a flood leads to a broad stagnation in the market in terms of capital growth (as per Brisbane). I can only imagine what impact the earthquakes in New Zealand had on rental property there.

If you’re holding long-term, these sorts of events that occur in one year, or even over a number of years, don’t necessarily mean you’ve bought a dud. It might, if you’re being forced to subsidise a negatively geared property you easily can’t afford—in which case you’ll probably want the situation to come good within a defined time period (i.e. five to ten years); you’ll also need to decide whether that subsidy is worth the cost to you—especially if it’s not a burden. The selling costs (agent’s fees, possibly CGT, timing, etc)—coupled with the costs to acquire a replacement property (stamp duty, possibly LMI, time lost in the market)—make selling off an “underperforming” asset problematic.

I’ve written previously that time heals all problems but the flip side to this statement, of course, is that time is not on our side! Even for me as a relatively young man I’ll only get two to three decades (two to three growth cycles) before we both retire and our earned income dries up. With a goal of holding 6-10 properties at minimum, and natural constraints around how quickly we can do that, time is most definitely not on our side!

I’ll keep working through this one but I wanted to share while the subject was front of mind.

I’ve been reading a lot of Robert Kiyosaki lately so I’ll close by highlighting a recurring theme in all of his Rich Dad books: don’t buy investments that will cost you money. Speaking to us Aussies, I’m pretty sure he’d say “buy positively geared properties, mate”. That doesn’t completely solve our performance question—a positively geared property could revert back—but it’s a sound idea where it’s possible to find and buy such an asset.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

4 - Risky Business?

Risk is one of those misunderstood concepts that seemingly plagues everything we do: riding a bike is risky, crossing the street is risky, buying property is risky.

I’ve found people throw around the word risk in a very self-limiting way and when it’s used in the context of any random conversation they:

a) haven’t identified the actual risks that apply to that situation;

b) haven’t classified those risks in terms of their likelihood of actually occurring and the impact if they do occur;

c) haven’t identified ways of mitigating those risks or reducing the likelihood of their occurrence and severity should they occur.

Your mom or sister or brother or uncle will just say “oohhh that’s too risky for me” without understanding why it’s risky. This annoys me to no end because their ignorance suggests I haven’t evaluated risk and am therefore as ignorant and blind as they are myself—I am not!

Experience also reduces the risks that apply and time, of course, redresses many risks—especially in the world of long-term property investment.

Not taking risks could be said to be just as risky as taking managed risks! How else do we move forward as individuals and as a society and culture?!? NASA didn’t put men on the moon without taking risks.

The key to managing risk in any situation is understanding and qualifying the risks that might eventuate.

The example cited above of riding a bicycle is simplistic but the risks of riding a bike are numerous and include falling off, getting hit by a car, riding into a pedestrian, vehicle, animal, or lake, the chain falling off, getting wet if it rains, getting a flat tyre, having to shower when you get to work but having no soap. I used to ride my bike to work every day and these are all real risks!

Having identified the risks, scrutinise each risk in further detail to categorise and rate each one. Here are a few examples from bike riding:

Falling off: There’s a small chance you might fall off your bike and the result might be of no consequence if you land on your feet or it might be catastrophic if you bump your head. Maybe you’re riding over a loose surface or in the snow. Maybe you’re trying to stay balanced while you’re clipped in at a traffic light. Maybe you’ve made the poor decision to ride home after a few beers on a Friday night after work. The risk of falling off could be decomposed into several risks which are easier to think about and to manage but let’s keep things simple for now. In all cases, you can mitigate the risk of falling off by wearing a helmet and gloves, taking a safe route on bike paths and becoming familiar with the route and all of its hazards, and of course making good decisions while you ride such as unclipping from your pedals at intersections! You could also take out life insurance to cover your healthcare expenses, protect your income if you’re seriously hurt, and reduce your liability if you hurt someone else.
Flat tyre: This one’s easy: the risk is very low as it’s bound to happen every so often and is something that can be fixed on the spot in ten minutes (or worst case: call someone to collect you and your bike). Mitigation includes not riding over broken glass and fields of prickles; of course, you’ll also want to carry a spare tube or patch kit, tyre levers, and a pump and a flat may make you late for work… which might get you fired.

Don’t forget to take a moment to look at the risks in the context of what you gain, which in the case of our example include improved health (if you don’t fall off!), cost-effective transport and exercise, less stress, nice tan, etc.

In a similar vein, property investment has it’s own set of risks but it’s not inherently “risky”. You’ll want to identify the risks that apply to your situation but this is easily done and takes only a few minutes to think through the details. You’ll sleep better at night having done so—I promise: if your mind starts playing tricks, all you have to do is return to your risk assessment and you can say “nup, that’s a low-likelihood risk and although the consequences are high these mitigations are in place” and carry on sleeping.

Here’s a shortlist of property risks to get you started:

Buying a low growth property
Buying a property with expensive problems (pests, asbestos, etc)
Buying a low cash flow property
Paying more than the property is worth (i.e. buying at auction)
Sharks and dodgy investments
Problem tenants/property management
Vacancy
Unexpected repairs/shonky builder
Interest rate increases
Job loss
Hidden costs (stamp duty, mortgage lender’s insurance, council rates, insurance, accounting, management, etc)
Change in legislation (i.e. taxation laws relating to negative gearing)
Liquidity
Capital gains tax
Selling costs

It’s also important to weigh up the risks you identify in context of the reward—the gains you stand to make if the risks you identify do not eventuate. These might include income through a positively geared property, equity, and wealth.

We mitigated a number of the early risks related to buying by going through Open Wealth but I compiled a risk matrix for each of the risks that do apply in our case, specifically as we move into the post-construction phase. It’s a simple grid. I noted the risk, the criteria for that risk to be fulfilled, probability, impact, ranking, mitigation, and contingency.

Simplistic definitions for these terms are as follows:

Probability:

Improbable
Remote
Occasional
Probable
Frequent

Impact:

Negligible
Marginal
Critical
Catastrophic

Ranking:

Acceptable as-is
Acceptable with controls
Undesirable
Unacceptable

If, in future, I do encounter one or more of the risks I’ve defined, I have a ready-made framework for understanding those risks—at the very least—and some initial guidance for dealing with them in the heat of the moment. Hopefully I’ve taken steps to mitigate a risk before it becomes a big problem. If nothing else, my risk matrix is an integral part of my strategy relating to property investment and prompts me to think about things that might go wrong before they go wrong—or more specifically—how to measure my success or lack thereof.

Property investment is not inherently risky and I consider it to be far less risky than investing in stocks, where you have no real control over how your investment performs, or leaving in the bank to suffer at the hand of inflation. Many risks in the property sphere are readily overcome and the risk of losing money—or not making money—are often under your control with reasonable opportunities for mitigation.

Of course not doing anything is the biggest risk of all to building your future wealth. Time, conversely, is your biggest ally and will help to remove many short-term risks if you’re prepared to hold and ride out any lumps and bumps.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

3 - First Steps

There are so many subtle decisions and parallel steps in the property buying process it’s hard to know where to start in describing how we went from A to B. I suppose I’ll start at the very beginning, following our decision residential property investment was the thing for us.

Selecting an Investment Advisor

I’ve written about our “A-Team” previously so won’t reiterate the contents of that post here. Suffice to say we knew we’d need to decide on an individual or company to assist us to select a market, suburb, and property. I considered the risks too high to attempt this on my own, the first time around. You might do this yourself, someone might do it for you at no cost to you, or you might pay someone to provide this service (such as a broker).

I met with a few property investment companies and ultimately decided to move forward with Open Wealth Creation. We aligned to the Open Wealth methodology because it made sense and the Open Wealth team provided a large quantity of quality educational materials at no charge (a reminder, this blog is not an advertisement or referral for any of the entities I mention in these posts).

As we evaluated Open Wealth, I was also interacting with Joyce Property (based in Perth) but I opted not to move forward with them because they also promote and sell apartments; I don’t believe apartments are a good residential investment and I believe if you’re spruiking apartments you’re not working in the interest of those who are investing with your firm. Notably, Joyce does not charge a fee for their services, whereas Open Wealth do charge a fee. Joyce are obviously a very experienced organisation (I met with Graham Joyce and he oozes professional history).

My wife and I also met with a representative from Investmark and I attended a seminar and had a follow up meeting with IPG but neither were up to the task I set them and seemingly just wanted to shift stock onto naive investors. Their eyes widened when we first explained how much useable equity we had but neither one followed up with me, despite prompting, when I asked them to back up their claims. The free IPG seminar was more or less promising and it seemed like what they were selling was based on good research. At the end of the day, both felt very slippery, verging on dodgy.

Finally, I met with Nicheliving a few times (primarily for their mortgage brokering services but initially for their house and land packages). They’re obviously big in WA but were really pushing us towards NRAS properties and their approach seemed somewhat thick. I knew pretty quickly I wanted to be building in Queensland (Brisbane) but it was worth the discussion with Nicheliving. Nicheliving are a one stop shop, which might be a good thing (or might not!). Their advertising also shows a dude holding wads of cash so it seemed like they target the get rich quick crowd which is not what I’m about.

Getting Money

In parallel with the discussions I was having with these advisors and property development firms, I initiated contact with our current bank and with the mortgage broker we used when purchasing our PPOR.

Although I didn’t intend to send the investment property mortgage to the bank that holds the mortgage over our PPOR, I needed to understand how much equity we had in our family home and, secondarily, how much they thought we could borrow. This turned out to be a good move as the bank was able to very quickly order a full valuation at no charge to me and it turned out to be a very positive engagement in terms of learning how to to converse successfully with the bank. Importantly, because the bank ordered the valuation directly, I was able to get a copy (I wasn’t able to get a copy when our mortgage broker requested a second valuation—which also went through the bank…).

I wasn’t as impressed with the bank’s view about our loan serviceability—and in turn how much they would lend us; this was due primarily to the fact we’re a single-income family. Nonetheless, the home loan specialist I dealt with was immensely useful in helping me to understand the value of our family home and how we might go about refinancing its corresponding mortgage and optionally financing the investment property purchase. The specialist was also able to share the valuation report with me and it was helpful to see how the valuer saw our property (interestingly, we have a four bedroom house—as per the plans I supplied to him—but he recorded and valued the property as a three bedroom house with a study…).

I didn’t want the bank which has our PPOR mortgage to also hold our IP mortgage because I didn’t want to cross-securitise the loans. I highlighted this when I spoke to our bank and was reassured it wouldn’t be a problem but I’ve read a single lender holding both mortgages will always ensure they come out best in the event of any problems. Yes, we might have secured a lower interest rate and it would have been convenient having everything in one place but I’d only consider a single bank scenario if we eventually get to the world of private banking.

Following that initial conversation with the bank I also got in touch with a mortgage broker. Broker’s are often recommended and, as mentioned, we’d had success with a broker when mortgaging our PPOR (we used Mortgage Choice). You can do your homework and check out products from each of the banks on your own but why bother when using a mortgage broker doesn’t cost you anything and they’re already familiar with countless loan products? The broker I dealt with reassured me Mortgage Choice is paid the same commission for all of the products they recommend, removing the opportunity for the broker to recommend one product above another that will earn them more money; of course I’m not sure how true that is.

Our broker told me he has a few investment properties himself and I think finding people who understand investment property is really important because they’ll have a better appreciation of the path you’re following. As some of our requirements were different to your mortgage broker’s average client requirements (more on that in a moment), I wanted to structure our loans differently than what the broker first had in mind. At the end of the day the broker was able to find the products we needed, submit the applications (he walked through every line on the application forms with me), and secure an interest rate on the main loan that is 0.02% better than what that bank would have offered had I gone to them directly.

With my wife being a doctor, it turned out she was also eligible for a partial LMI waiver (this is one of the interesting requirement I mentioned earlier). Essentially, some lenders will offer members of specific professions an LMI waiver on the basis that they present a lower risk as borrowers. Search for LMI discount or see here for examples—you may be surprised what you find. I certainly wish I’d known about this offer/wish it existed when we purchased our PPOR as we had some major cash flow problems for a little while when we first had to sort out stamp duty and then LMI (and then retaining walls)!

Both of the brokers I was dealing with (Mortgage Choice and Nicheliving) were across the major lenders offering LMI waivers (initially CBA and Westpac but now ANZ and possibly Macquarie and St Georges) and we ended up being able to borrow 90% of the IP costs without incurring LMI. Note the 10% balance was paid from the line of credit secured against the equity in our PPOR but we could have done an 80/20 split if necessary. You can take the latter approach too if you don’t qualify for an LMI waiver but don’t want to pay LMI and have sufficient equity.

Mortgage Choice submitted applications for the main IP loan and the line of credit with our existing lender. Both lenders performed their respective valuations, the first on the property we were buying and the second on our home.

After all was said and (nearly*) done, our unconditional finance approvals came through without a hitch. People get all bent out of shape about finance but I don’t let it phase me—in this case I’d done my homework and knew what to expect. In other words, I wasn’t asking for more than any reasonable person in our situation might need and the numbers were simple and made sense. I was also confident our team would get us through. Might be different next time around though!

* Land settlement is due in the next few weeks. When settlement occurs, the solicitor will meet with the bank and land developer to ensure monies are dispersed appropriately and all of the legals are taken care of.

Land and Builder (etc)

Following an initial phone consultation with Open Wealth and a bit more back and forth, the first thing we needed to do with them was have our name added to a waiting list for a property in the area (the development) they were recommending.

After looking over the property details and the house specifications, we had to sign an “Exclusive Hold Agreement”, which essentially allowed us to deliberate further, and undertake additional due diligence, while the property could not be offered to anyone else. The hold agreement also required payment of a $1,000 refundable deposit. If we chose to back out, the deposit would be refunded in full. This deposit was payable to Open Wealth and is ultimately part of their 2% fee.

With the land contracts submitted, we then had to pay a $2,000 refundable holding deposit to the land developer. This deposit is essentially part of what would be a typical 10% land deposit—there is no further deposit to pay for the land and the balance of the land price and costs are paid at land settlement. The land contracts included the Contract for House and Residential Land (REIQ) and Terms of Contract for House and Residential Land (REIQ), as well as special annexures.

Note we had no opportunity throughout this process to submit an “offer” as such and when I enquired about negotiating on price, I was told the prices are essentially non-negotiable. This is something I want to find out more about if we repeat the process again with Open Wealth.

Next, we had to pay the balance of the Open Wealth “Development Management Agreement Fee” (their fee) within seven days following unconditional approval. This fee is 2% plus GST of the total land and construction price and is tax deductible.

Finally (FINALLY!) we had the 5% builder’s deposit to pay; we were given the option of paying this before settlement so the builder could make a start before we actually owned the land (due to an arrangement between the land developer and the builder negotiated by Open Wealth). We had the option to pay this after settlement.

Note I would have paid all of these costs from our line of credit in order to tax deduct the interest but unfortunately the LOC wasn’t yet available when I paid the $1k and $2k deposits. I may still be able to claim something for these but it gets tricky as I paid both of these initial deposits from our personal transaction account and that gets messy in the eyes of the ATO; will let the accountant sort that one out come tax time! [Update: on advice from our accountant, I “refunded” the $3k to our personal account, in two separate transactions, from our LOC.]

In summary, these were our upfront costs and the timing of relevant milestones:

September

Exclusive Hold Agreement signed and returned.

October

Open Wealth deposit: $1,000 (of the total Development Management Fee) to Open Wealth. Refundable.
Land contracts signed by us and returned.

November

Land developer deposit: $2,000 (of the land price) to the land developer. Refundable. Payable once land sale contracts submitted
Unconditional finance approval received.
Development Management Agreement Fee: 2% plus GST (minus $1,000 paid initially) of the land and construction costs to Open Wealth. Tax deductible.
Construction contracts signed by us and returned.

December

Builder’s deposit: 5% of the construction price to the builder. Tax deductible.

[Update: March

Land settlement]

Reading and Learning

As all of these events unfolded, I was busily reading everything I could get my hands on. I’ve started a bibliography ~~which I’ll publish soon~~ in case you want to follow what I’ve read. Education is obviously a time consuming (and at times tiresome) activity but I feel it’s important to understand the principles of property investment inside and out—especially as I lack the repeated experiences myself.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,
Michael

About Me

Hi, I'm Michael. I'm a first-time property investor living in Western Australia. I'm also a stay-at-home dad and husband. Follow along with me as I recount the day-to-day activities of buying a block of land in Brisbane and building a new house for investment purposes. If you're thinking of doing the same, I hope you'll learn something from my mistakes--which I'll share openly. If we're successful this time around, I hope one will become two and two will become four and so on... as interest rates no doubt increase and the Australian economic landscape shifts and slides and evolves. Should be interesting! Thanks for reading.

Property Investment

Pages

49 - Cash savings cost you money

47 – How we saved 1 million dollars tax free

45 - Financial Exercise

Check your accounts regularly

Review and revise your financial goals

Save your receipts and keep a log book of costs

Budget

Research

44 - Re-letting IP#1

42 - Tenant Churn

38 - Surprise! Unexpected Changes

37 – A Few Reasons for Investing in Property

27 - Appointing a Property Manager

13 – Life Insurance

9 - Performance Measurement

4 - Risky Business?

3 - First Steps

Selecting an Investment Advisor

Getting Money

Land and Builder (etc)

Reading and Learning