Showing posts with label Credit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Credit. Show all posts

48 - Making Money Lazy

LazyUp until lately we’ve been on a roll: a few years back the equity loan was approved against our family home—putting that “lazy money” to work for us, and we were approved for and built our first two investment properties using the bank’s money.

But things are tight these days in the banking and credit sector and, with only one income, our ability to service additional loans is viewed as risky by the big lenders. Which of course sucks because we have a sizeable “rainy day” fund, the wife is in a well-paid job, and we have a very strong history of paying our bills on time and saving.

In other words, we still have income coming in but no option (currently) to invest it in additional properties without tying up our own funds. Our mortgage broker said “no” :’(

This situation leads to the holding pattern which is Plan B: reducing interest payable on the investment property loans. In other words, we’ve started stashing our spare cash in the offset accounts attached to the interest-only investment loans. This cash is therefore fluid—it can be withdrawn at any moment—and, because we’re using the offset accounts instead of paying down the loan as principal and interest (or paying into redraw), interest on the full loan amount remains deductible if and when we do withdrawn cash in the future.

While I’d prefer to be building our property portfolio (the median house price moves forever upwards) using the bank’s money and tax-deductible debt to achieve long-term growth, at least we’re saving interest. In fact this is the exact strategy we adopted with our PPOR—but of course, interest on that debt was not not tax-deductible and there were different variables at work there.

The biggest problem I have now is our money could be working harder. Although it could be said we’re retiring debt (sort of), this is good debt and I don’t want to retire it… I want to use our money to borrow other people’s money so it can be put to work for us! Interest rates are low and likely to stay that way for the near-term and if we could buy again now, at today’s median house price or just below, we could achieve cheap capital growth over the next few years.

We’ll review things again in six month intervals—both serviceability but also capital growth of our existing investment properties, which may allow us to leverage that equity to fund a larger deposit for IP #3. But that’s not how I’d prefer to do it.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

43 - Recapping the IP#2 land purchase

TortureWhat a roller coaster ride we’ve had “just” to buy a plot of land over the last six months! We’re nearly there now and I wanted to briefly highlight some of the issues we encountered in securing the block of land and finance. In summary, the land titles have registered and we’re finally approaching settlement.

If you’re interested in the details, I’ve linked to earlier posts below.

Step 1: Difficult finance pre-approval

We kicked off towards the end of 2015 when I asked our mortgage broker to look into finance pre-approval following my return to work several months prior. Although the wife was on maternity leave, I’d nonetheless been tinkering with the idea of a second investment build. The broker deemed our bank-appointed credit assessor to be unreasonably pernickety but finance was provisionally approved on the basis of servicing via my income alone.

I then needed to convince dear wife a second investment build is a good idea and gave Open Corp the okay to proceed once we reached agreement.

Step 2: Property selection do-over

All was looking rosy with the first property selected for us by Open Corp until the vendor mysteriously sat on the signed land contract for some weeks. It turned out we’d been gazumped by a large buyer who apparently bought out all remaining blocks in the release—including those blocks with unexecuted contracts.

By this point, our bank pre-approval was due to expire but Open Corp quickly found us a similar, alternate property in a neighbouring estate. It was slightly larger, with a correspondingly larger price tag. In the interest of time, we nominated Open Corp to purchase the property on our behalf.

Step 3: Short valuation

The Valex-appointed valuation company contracted by the bank to value this second block came back with an ill-considered short valuation. We were told by Open Corp and otherwise of the view the property value was in line with the contract price. Appeals to the valuer (Peter Jones from Lee Property) and the bank to review or reconsider a similar valuation that came in at cost for a similar property in the same estate fell on deaf ears. In brief, the valuer considered an inappropriate set of comparable properties and didn’t do his job. Unfortunately, there would be no getting around this and we’ll need to contribute the shortfall from our equity loan.

Step 4: Finance do-over

Throughout the valuation shenanigans, the contract I was on at work came to an abrupt end and left us as a no income, two kids (NITK—my acronym?) household—not all that appealing to a lender when it comes to their evaluation of a client’s ability to make loan repayments. The wife was still on maternity leave and, although she had a contract to resume work (and was actually on leave—maternity leave), the initial finance application was based on my income alone because our mortgage broker didn’t think her potential income would be considered. With my last pay stub showing the drop off in hours, it was difficult to prove to the bank we could afford this loan. For good measure, my overarching head contract also ran out!

Meanwhile, our deadline for finance approval with the land vendor was due to expire. A one-week extension was approved, provided the deposit was paid in full by the original due date. I wasn’t terribly comfortable paying the deposit until finance was unconditional but both Open Corp and our (independent) mortgage broker confirmed it was fully refundable.

Through a tip from another mortgage broker, I persuaded our broker to approach the bank about taking into account the wife’s signed work contract, commencing on her return to work from maternity leave and well before settlement. I’d been told the bank we were working with had recently softened their stance on maternity leave. Of course we first had to find the wife’s contract, which was buried in her work emails as an attachment she couldn’t access remotely. Her maternity leave had also been paid upfront so she had no recent pay slips.

The final hurdle was the build contract, signed by nomination, which the bank wouldn’t accept. A new contract was couriered out to us and signed in a hurry before being couriered back to be executed anew by the builder.

With the build contract sorted, the maternity leave strategy delivered and finance was finally approved.

Step 5: Deposits

Although the Open Corp land deposit is normally $2,000, our land contract stipulated the typical 5% deposit. As mentioned above, the extension required us to pay the balance before finance was unconditionally approved.

The builder’s deposit (5% of the build price) also came due just after finance approval and the balance of Open Corp’s fee was also payable.

It’s at this point—when significant amounts of money are moving out of the account—that it all starts to get real. Of course land titles haven’t yet registered and settlement hasn’t yet come about. Perhaps more importantly, in terms of getting a paying tenant through the doors, construction hasn’t yet started.

Step 6: Finance re-do over

A final twist to the finance saw our request for an LMI waiver come through shortly after signing the first loan documents, which necessitated the inconvenience having the loan documents signed again. We weren’t sure how this was going to play out before this point so it was a happy surprise, at least.

Step 7: Certified ID

As a final poke in the eye, I heard from Open Corp—two days before our anticipated settlement date—to say the solicitor needed a certified copy of our ID. On very short notice, the wife was fortunately able to find a Justice of the Peace at the hospital who could certify her ID… the head pharmacist, he was paged and materialised from a sterile room in a full biohazard suit to help her out!

Subject to the bank, settlement is scheduled this week.

Update (bonus Step 8!)

Wow, we’ll never cut a break with this one!

We settled on Thursday morning at midday but first had a call from our Eastern states solicitor at 7am to say the bank wanted a $25,000 owner contribution (the day before it was $0). That amount was not only more than I could transfer online given our daily transfer limit but it was also more than the bank’s first-line call centre rep could manage for us.

I asked to speak with the rep’s supervisor and, after going through some additional identification questions and a nuclear launch sequence involving call backs and temporary passcodes, I was able to make the transfer.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

41 – Why bother reviewing your bank interest rate

I write constantly here about reviewing your interest rates (and insurance premiums, etc) but that’s because I’m constantly astounded by how willing large organisations are to take us all for a ride with very subtle interest rate movements and other fees.

I recently noticed the interest rate advertised online for our PPOR and line of credit were a little way from the actual interest rates we’ve been paying. I thought the interest rates on these products would keep pace with both RBA rate changes and changes to the original product but of course that’s not always the case with RBA rate and perhaps not so much the case regarding changes to the loan product.

So I contacted the bank and, after chatting with a representative from the retention department, the rate on our PPOR loan was reduced by .20% (they couldn’t move the LOC rate).

It’s worth noting the rate advertised online is for new loans and the rep I spoke with told me they can’t “match” that rate as our loan was established at a certain point in time when interest rates were likely higher (i.e. when the bank “bought” the money they lent to us). I was told we’d have to refinance to achieve the lower rate.

The rep also mentioned the interest rate isn’t adjusted automatically as the product itself changes and it’s best to review the interest rate every twelve months or so and give the bank a call if necessary—good advice.

So what does .20% actually mean to us in dollar terms, I wondered? Is it $10 per annum and hardly worth bothering about or is $1000 (or more) per annum? I don’t like to wonder these things, I like to know with certainty so I put together a spreadsheet to multiply a given daily interest rate (or part thereof) by a specified amount for a specific timeframe (i.e. 30 days, 1 year, 2 years, etc).

Working off a principal amount of $500,000 (let’s call that the national medium house price, roughly speaking), I was surprised at the results.

For example, let’s say I’m comparing two loan products with an interest rate of 4% and 4.5% p.a. respectively. How much does that extra 0.5% cost per year? From my table (below), intersect the 0.5% column and the 365 (days) row and you can see the answer is $2,500. That’s a lot of money to unburden yourself of every year for no benefit. If you’re capitalising that charge it’s also going to compound in the bank’s favour!

The table shows two sets of columns. The first set with the dark headings shows part percentages up to 1%; the right-most columns with the lighter shading show a range of current rates, increasing at 0.5% intervals.

Have a look and compare the rates on your loans and then talk to your bank—or refinance if you have to (talk to a mortgage broker).

Click the image to see a a full-size version of the table.

Interest Rate Table

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I’m not selling anything and I do not receive any form of commission or incentive payments for any companies or individuals I endorse. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

39 – Gazumped

Tank Wheel ClampI’ve mentioned a few times on this blog how smoothly everything went with the first investment property. From land and build contracts, to finance, to construction, and tenanting it was one tick in the box after another. When we set about repeating the process with Open Corp, I expected an identical outcome, this time with the benefit of personal experience.

Through no fault of Open Corp’s, we’ve had a rocky start this time. Our finance pre-approval, with me only recently back to work and the wife on maternity leave, was heavily scrutinised by the bank and was finally approved in mid-December—valid for three months, including the Christmas holidays. Dear wife then took her time finally agreeing to the commitment before we gave Open Corp the green light.

More recently, with our pre-approval due to expire within a week, I received a call from Open Corp telling us a larger buyer had come in and offered to purchase all remaining blocks in the development we were to buy in to—including all blocks with non-executed contracts. We’d signed the contract but it hadn’t yet been fully executed (signed) by the vendor. I’m not sure if it applies in the fullest sense to this specific situation, but I think we were gazumped.

Open Corp were helpfully able to secure another, larger block for us in a neighbouring estate (at a higher cost due to the increased land size—with the difference to be rebated back to us). They also had our initial deposit refunded from the original land developer and applied to this new property. The stamp duty will be about a thousand dollars more because of the increased sale price but I’m comfortable with that seeing as how we’ll be getting an extra 48sqm at minimal cost.

Given the timelines for the finance pre-approval, we were able to nominate Open Corp to sign the land and build contracts on our behalf (the property is in Victoria) and the mortgage broker was able to submit our finance application on the last day of our pre-approval… still without an executed land contract.

Land contracts just aren’t working out for us this time around. It’s now been two weeks since the final finance application was submitted and we’re still waiting on the executed land contract. I have no idea what the hold up is this time and apparently neither do Open Corp but it’s all slightly concerning—especially coming from where we’ve been with the first block. Will the same thing happen with the unexecuted contract being sold to a bulk purchaser? Is whoever does the signing at the vendor’s end out of town? In other words, what’s going on?!?

[Update (6 April): the signed land contracts finally came back late last week, which of course starts the clock ticking for the finance approval…]

Meanwhile, the bank seems to be moving the application forward without this seemingly important document and have ordered a valuation on the property and requested a few extra pieces of documentation from us. I have no experience how flexible the major banks are with the deadlines for their pre-approvals and I’d be very curious to know what happens next if this purchase falls over on the land contract.

All of this is unnerving and frustrating but we’ve never had any major issues buying or securing finance for our PPOR or the first IP and I’m hoping this will come good. I know finance is often the biggest hurdle for many buyers and it was certainly a relief to move forward from the point of unconditional finance approval with the first IP.

Compounding matters, the bank (a different lender to the one we used for the first IP—to avoid cross-collateralising) has flagged a possible issue approving a 10% LMI discount for us. Certain professionals are eligible to pay a 10% deposit instead on the typical 20% deposit before LMI kicks in and the wife, being a doctor, falls into that category of professional. The only problem from the bank’s perspective is the fact she’s not working… or more precisely, as I’d describe it: she’s on leave (maternity leave)—and she is therefore still employed. Unfortunately she has no current pay stubs to prove that to the bank and we’re waiting on a letter from her employer in the hope the bank will accept that.

I hope we’ll have a better view of both the land contract and the finance situation this next (short) week but I won’t bet on it.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

36 - On Goals

top-50-super-quotes-of-all-times-19-728I scared myself silly when we signed up for our first mortgage in 2006 to buy a block of land and cover the ensuing house construction. That mountain of debt looked insurmountable and, considering the higher interest rates at the time, the repayments felt like an invisible shackle binding us to the daily grind of working life. The system had us by the balls and would continue to hold on for the next thirty years—according to the bank’s timeline.

This mortgage was, in many ways, a necessity (of modern life, anyway) as it would fund the establishment of our family home and promote us from the status of mere tenants. As projected, we now have two young children and are proceeding to raise them in the house we built.

In the years preceding the build we rented, paying what felt like dead money to our landlords—around $125/week or so. After repaying a student loan to my mom and moving to Perth we had very little money to our names, despite the fact I’d been working full-time as a professional for two years. My infamous frugality comes to me honestly after several years of having to live on the cheap!

On deciding to buy the block, the savings we had put aside for a deposit were all but spent by the time the deposit (we borrowed 95%, from memory) and stamp duty were paid and then we had that fun little surprise of lender’s mortgage insurance to deal with.

It was around this time I casually voiced my apprehensions about all of this to a work colleague (the CIO where I was working at the time, Colin Macdonald). His simple advice to me—which I would readily pass on to anyone else in a similar position—was to repay the loan as quickly as possible.

The bank had us down for thirty years. Colin’s advice was to clear the loan in ten years.

Say what now?!

I broke out a spreadsheet and projected some numbers forward in time. At best, I thought we might be able to repay the principal amount by 2018 (so ten or eleven years). I played with the bank calculators and quickly realised we could save the value of the property itself in interest costs—hundreds of thousands of dollars—by making extra repayments. I was intrigued.

We had a basic home loan at the time with no offset facility. The bank did include a free redraw facility with this product, however. With the redraw setup, we could manually (electronically) transfer our savings into the mortgage and therefore save the associated interest costs that would otherwise be charged on that amount. Better yet, the redraw funds were fluid, meaning we could redraw, on demand, some or all of funds we put in if we needed that money (in an emergency, to fund a car purchase, for a holiday, or for any reason).

There is one caveat to note with redraw, which I only learned about more recently: the ATO considers funds contributed to redraw to have contributed to paying down the original debt. In brief, if you think you might rent out your property in the future, you’ll only be able to tax deduct costs associated with the loan amount you haven’t yet repaid (even if you redraw the surplus funds). Offset accounts may attract a small fee but are immune from the ATO, work in the same way as redraw, and are more convenient.

And so we set ourselves a goal, which would later become our very basic financial strategy: put it all into redraw. Rather than making interest at whatever low interest rate the bank would offer, we save the interest the bank would charge for some of the mortgage amount (whatever we could put in).

With me working as a contractor and the wife working long hours in a good job (that doesn’t pay terribly well) we continued to live as we had: simply. We didn’t spend excessively—we didn’t often have the opportunity to do so with the wife working 60-80 hours a week. Entertainment costs were out!

Instead of keeping our savings in a regular bank account, we kept them in the redraw account.

Slowly but surely the extra contributions started to add up with the added benefit of reversing the huge impact of compounding interest fees the bank would have otherwise been charging us. The Albert Einstein quote says it all: “Compound interest is the eighth wonder of the world. He who understands it, earns it ... he who doesn't ... pays it.”

But today’s post isn’t about compound interest, it’s about goals—specifically the huge goal we set out to achieve nine or so years ago.

Admittedly I’ve been a little distracted by being back to work and the kids and I’d neglected for some time to update my spreadsheet that tracks the balance of our home mortgage and the offset account we now employ in place of redraw. I updated this spreadsheet recently and noticed what I first thought was an anomaly in the data: the negative amount highlighted red I normally show for the balance of our home loan minus the offset balance was no longer negative and it was no longer red: it was black and it was positive. The balance in our redraw account was more than what was owing on the mortgage.

I do keep an eye on our monthly repayments so I knew before this point we were heading in the right direction. In the last six months the monthly interest charge had plummeted steadily from a couple of hundred dollars to less than $10.00.

It then dawned on me: we’d met our goal. We’d met our goal a year early. Although the mortgage account was still open (and will remain so for a couple of specific reasons), we effectively have the option to repay the mortgage balance in full, if and when we choose to do so.

Back in 2006, this milestone was equivalent in my mind to being financially free. Today that’s not quite the case as our commitments—financial and life-related—have increased and of course there is a cost of living in groceries, petrol, clothing, and so on. I can say achieving this goal feels as good as I hoped it would back in 2006—perhaps all the more so because I neglected to watch as the odometer tick over.

This post is isn’t to boast, it’s to celebrate and inspire. From a very low base, ten years of hard work and time has allowed us to meet our single financial goal. Your goal(s) might be different depending on your circumstances: your timeline to repay your mortgage, depending on the value of your mortgage and your income, might be the same or it might be a shorter timeframe or a longer timeframe. You may also favour a better balance in life than what we’ve managed to achieve (I believe strongly in delayed gratification but I’m also nearing forty…). Nonetheless, set a goal and then plan to achieve it. The world can then be yours.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael

5 - How to Spend Money

This is simple but for so many people the concept is something from the stratosphere. My rules are as follows:

  1. Don’t spend money
  2. Use other people’s money (a mortgage to buy property, interest free periods on a credit card) when you have to spend money
  3. Build your credit history (if you’re new to borrowing)

Let me explain in a bit more detail…

1. Don’t Spend Money

This is really the golden rule. Some people might choose to read this as “don’t spend money you don’t have” but see Rule #2 before you adopt that approach. But there’s no need to interpret the wording at all: just don’t spend money!

Although simple in theory, this is extremely difficult for many people to implement in practice. We’re used to spending money and our culture conditions us to spend more money than we need through marketing and advertising and by watching our friends and families succeed. Break the habit, become wealthier, spare the planet the extra plastic, and change the world, maaaaan!!! Ignore the adverts and recognise and accept your friends might be earning more money than you are/in a different financial situation to yours/stupider than you are. Spending money is not a measure of success or intelligence.

If you don’t need something, don’t buy it. Live frugally, is what I always say (rather than calling myself cheap!). Don’t live in the moment and buy impulsively. The time for spending money will come but right now you need to accumulate money and wealth and the easiest way to do this is via the magical effects of compounding, a subject on which I’ll write more about in detail another day. For now, just understand the less money you throw away, the more money you’ll have to make more money.

Before you whip our your credit card, stop and think whether what you’re about to buy is going to increase the number of days (or months or years) you’re going to have a mortgage to repay—or increase the time it’s going to take to save up a deposit for a first home loan. Ask yourself if this doodad, that beer, this seemingly insignificant expenditure is really necessary to your wellbeing and fulfilment. Can it wait another month? Another year? I remember when I first reviewed the interest costs on our PPOR mortgage: over the thirty year term, we would ultimately end up paying the bank the value of our home again. The quicker we could repay the principal, the less we’d pay on interest.

The best way not to spend money is to understand what you need to spend to survive (i.e. a plan or budget—anything), spend that amount and record the transactions against your plan or budget, and treat  yourself occasionally but in moderation.

There are also many subtleties at play here. Never spend money on a depreciating asset like a car—i.e. don’t buy cars, at least not new ones, until you can genuinely afford to. Don’t buy an ultra HD curved OLED television. Don’t waste food. If you’re spending more than $50 a month on booze, you’re spending too much. Definitely don’t smoke or quit if you do. Take it easy on the holidays. Don’t eat out too much.

There are also some really easy things you can do. Buy store brand ketchup instead of Heinz ketchup. Mow your own lawn. Change your behaviours by wearing your clothes for a second season instead of refreshing your wardrobe every three months. Use grocery store fuel vouchers to save on petrol. Pay your bills on time to avoid fees. Ensure you’re never in a position where you have to pay late payment fees or, worse, credit card interest. Make your lunch and take it to work instead of buying lunch every day. Cancel your cable TV subscription. Become a vegetarian and stop eating meat. Ride a bike to work instead of catching the bus or train (or worse, driving your car and paying for parking). As you start thinking like this, you find all sorts of ways to save a few dollars and as my mom always said: “every penny counts!”

Keep the achievement of your long-term goals front of mind and what you give up today is easier to bear. We took on a $700k+ mortgage in 2006; it’s all but paid off less than ten years later through moderate (minimal, really) spending and careful saving.

Edit: Please read my follow up post “Think Rich”—it explores a valid counterpoint to this concept.

2. Use Other People’s Money

If you insist on spending money, don’t use your money, use someone else’s money—at least for as long as you can and if you can do so for free.

Credit cards are considered intrinsically evil by some people but if these facilities are not abused they can be used to your advantage. As long as your balance owing is paid by the due date—that is, you have the cash flow to afford what you’ve purchased—you won’t have any interest to pay for the privilege of borrowing that amount for up to sixty days.

We buy everything (EVERYTHING—except purchases that attract a fee) on a single credit card with a reasonable limit and we pay the credit card bill on time. Our typical credit card bills run between $2,000 and $3,000 (more around Christmas, sometimes less after a really good month); instead of being paid for immediately from our cash, the value of our monthly spend is being lent to us at no charge by the credit card company. During that interest free period, that lent money is working for us in our offset account—reducing the amount on which mortgage interest is charged.

The added bonus is having the majority of our transactions centralised on one card, which makes it easy to know how much we’re spending month to month; it’s also easy to spot any problems. I typically pay off the credit card, in full, a day or two before it’s due to maximise the credit benefit.

The key takeaway here is to never pay interest on your credit card. Most cards will charge interest at an annual rate of around 20%. This adds up to lot of money—I’m always astounded how my credit card statement tells me if I only pay the minimum amount I’ll pay off the closing balance in “58 years and 07 months” and “end up paying an estimated total interest charge of $22,828”! That’s crazy talk.

If you get stuck with credit card debt, plan on getting rid of that debt first before anything else because it will most likely be the highest interest rate you’re faced with (apart from a bad car loan, perhaps). Call your credit card company and have a chat with them about a repayment plan or an interest-free period—ask to speak to the manager if necessary. If your card company won’t help—and by help I mean be very generous to you—roll over the balance on the card to a new card with a 0% introductory balance for 12 months or whatever period you can find. Hopefully that will give you enough time to clear the debt without the interest burden accumulating on top of the original amount.

Finally, I don’t use cards that incur an annual fee just for the sake of a few perks.

When it comes to your home loan, you also need to be careful. If you have a number of debts (i.e. a car loan, credit card, personal loan, etc) you may be offered the option of consolidating all those loans into your home loan. The benefit of doing so is a better interest rate: instead of a 20% rate for your card debt, you’ll be paying 5% at today’s rates. The downside is that debt will follow you for the term of your home loan, meaning the interest on the amount you’ve consolidated will compound every year until it’s repaid—along with x number of years of interest. You could end up paying off that new car for thirty years—long after the car is gone!

You might similarly be tempted to refinance your home to free up equity for a holiday or a new toy (boat?) or a swimming pool. This is easily done but, again, be mindful that in doing so you’re hiding the true cost and using money you can’t really afford.

Credit cards and home loans are generally considered “bad debt” because it’s money that doesn’t work for you. Consider the alternative: “good debt”. This is money borrowed that you in turn use to make money through investing in real estate, a business, or stocks. In contrast to the loan on your PPOR which will cost you money on interest (this interest cannot be claimed as a tax deduction), a investment property mortgage will serve to earn you money. So as a footnote to this section, if you’re buying an investment property, use the bank’s money—secured by the equity in your home—instead of putting down your cash that can be better used elsewhere.

A student loan like a HECS debt is also someone else’s money. If you have the option to reduce interest by making early repayments, ask yourself if the cost of holding onto that loan and not making early repayments will allow you to use that money more productively elsewhere. How much will you save by making early repayments? How much do you stand to make by investing the value of those repayments elsewhere (e.g. in an offset transaction account, saving you interest of say 5% at today’s rates on your PPOR mortgage)?

3. Build your Credit History

If you’re new to property and are looking to take on your first home loan in the next twelve months or so you’re probably also saving for a deposit and implementing a lot of the tips I’ve offered above—good on you. The next step is to ensure you have some form of credit history for lenders to look at when assessing your eventual loan application. To carry on from Rule #2, the easiest way to build your credit history is to take on a single credit card, use it, and ensure it’s paid off in full by the due date. This will help identify you as a borrower with a proven track record of debt repayment—through both intention and financial means.

I suppose a disclaimer is also worth posting: I'm just a guy, I'm not an accountant, lawyer, solicitor, tax agent, mortgage broker, banker, financial adviser, insurance agent, land developer, builder, government agent, or anything else so I disclaim your application of anything I write here is to be applied at your own risk. What I write may be incorrect and you are best to seek your own professional advice (tax, legal, financial, and otherwise) before entering into contracts or spending your money. Your situation is unique to you and what I write here reflects my experience only. This content is not professional advice and is not tailored to your situation. I'm learning too and expect to make many, many mistakes along the way.

Enjoy,

Michael